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Neon sign GTO wire for spark plug wire?

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Old 09-05-2018, 10:43 AM
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Default Neon sign GTO wire for spark plug wire?

Anyone have experience wiring neon signs with GTO wire? I'm wondering if I can use it to make some custom plug wires. I know it's got the same kind of silicone insulation on it so I figure why not. I don't wanna now anything up though so I thought I'd ask.
 
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Old 09-05-2018, 10:57 AM
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Also, I know electrical noise is an issue with solid core wires, but I also have access to some VFD cable braided shielding that I could cover them in, and possibly some wire loom braid to go over the outside (I'll have to check the temp rating).
 
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Old 09-12-2018, 04:50 AM
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Update, in case anyone is wondering (more details and thoughts below the image):

After lots of searching, I'm almost positive this will work, given that it is done correctly. Doing these things should make for safe and powerful plug wires!

1. Use GTO wire with good, thick silicone insulation.
2.Wrap the wire in foil shielding from the VFD cable. (This will block high frequency noise)
3. Cover the foil-wrapped wire with braided shielding, also from VFD cable. (This blocks the low frequency noise)
4. Leave enough excess braid on the *PLUG END* to crimp on a ring terminal for grounding.
5. Add your choice of heat-resistant wire loom/braid, obviously something non-conductive. (You don't want the metal braid exposed, grounding the shield along the wire)
6. Before putting your boots on, place a ferrite ring on each end of the wire. Once the boots are on, adjust the placement so that they are near - not against - the boots. Also, make sure that the ferrite ring on the plug end is placed after your exit point of the metal braid. (So that any movements or vibrations will not cause the boot to put pressure against the ring, possibly allowing it to wear the underlying material out.)




When wrapping the foil shield around your wires, be sure to have some overlap, and wrap it fairly tightly. Any gaps in the foil could allow high frequency noise through, and the braid will not be effective on it. Wrap it as close to the ends as you can. You can tape the end if you like, but it would probably be better to use a conductive tape to assure a strong contact surface to the braid.

When applying the braid, as with the foil, get it as close to the coil end as possible. On the plug end you'll want to leave about 1-2" from the boot, but remember to cut it extra long so that it can reach from the boot end to your grounding point. To create a ground conductor from the braid, push it back to loosen it wherever you'd like it to exit. Use a small screwdriver or similar object to stretch a hole in the braid. Once you have a big enough hole, fish the foil-wrapped wire out of the hole. Be careful with your foil. If you nick or damage the foil, be sure to cover it with conductive tape when you've got it pulled out. Then, simply pull all the slack out of the metal braid so that it will compress into a nice thick ground wire. Add a ring terminal and that part is done.

For your outer cloth (or similar) loom, you can either do the same thing, depending on the material you choose, or split it. You'll want to cover the ground branch-off with tape or heat shrink, so you can just add a second piece on the other side of the split and make sure the seam is covered.

The ferrite rings will provide extra protection at the weakest points in your shielding. On the plug end, you'll have a couple inches with no low-frequency shield, so it's especially important here. On the coil side, you will most likely never get a perfect end on your shielding, so think of it as insurance.

If you are meticulous, you should have no problems. However, if you have little to no experience working with these materials, try to set up a test rig away from your car (and any other valuable electronics). I plan on making a test rig just to be certain that I didn't create a gap in my shielding without noticing, and it will probably be something like this:

1. old distributor cap with wires connected, and a bolt with a positive lead inserted in the middle
2. boot terminals grounded
3. put the old rotor button in a drill, pressing the center contact to the center bolt, and fire away
4. with a couple old junk electronics and a meter nearby, I should be able to verify my noise protection.

I'm hoping to round up the scrap materials to make the wires this week, so i'll just have to find boots and terminals without buying a whole kit, as I won't need the wire. I'll post any updates!
 

Last edited by briansipsy; 09-12-2018 at 04:57 AM.
  #4  
Old 09-12-2018, 06:45 PM
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Good luck on the spark plug wires. Take some pictures and post the process on here.

FYI, Honda OEM spark plug wires seem to last forever. NGK is also an excellent replacement spark plug wire in case your wires cause problems.
 
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Old 09-13-2018, 01:37 AM
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I have the OEM wires on now, but if my tests are successful, I may make a whole set of 0hms. Would it make sense to use a larger plug gap if I’m getting a spark that’s many times hotter, or maybe to adjust the timing? I don’t really understand timing yet, but it was suggested by a friend who knows a lot more than I do.
 
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