Hope this is an appropriate section for this.
A buddy just gave me his 94 Accord, DX? whichever the lowest is.
It has 200k+ on it, but just had the timing belt replaced recently and runs fairly well.
So far I've only replaced the PS and AC/Alt belts, but here is my list:
Primary concerns:
Replace upper right turn signal assembly
Investigate source of exhaust leak
Investigate AC issue and/or system leak
Get speedometer working properly
Clearing up headlights (Gonna try some 2500 grit and toothpaste)
Secondary concerns:
Shocks & struts
Tie rod ends/steering components
Motor mounts?
Low idle (under 500)
HVAC temp ****
Wipers (Switch seems funny and wipers smack hard at down stop/rest, and almost go off side of windshield
Head unit & speakers

I'll be doing an oil & filter change, tune up (plugs, wires, cap & rotor, and air filter) and trying to catch up on above items and recommended maintenance interval items.

Any input, links, or suggestions on any of the above would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks! (And sorry for such a multi-tasked thread!)

Also, trying to do this as cheaply as possible!
No real long term plans for the car, but if it gets that far, some body work, paint, and maybe a H22A swap.

 

To save money, inspect parts before replacing them.

Add this to your list. Clean EGR ports.

Replace upper right turn signal assembly - Get a junkyard part
Investigate source of exhaust leak - Find leak and replace gasket and/or weld holes
Investigate AC issue and/or system leak - Start engine, turn on a/c. Do both fans run? Does the compressor clutch engage?
Get speedometer working properly - Does the cruise control work?
Clearing up headlights (Gonna try some 2500 grit and toothpaste) - Wet sand, then spray with clear coat that advertises no-yellowing
Secondary concerns:
Shocks & struts - Inspect shocks for leaks/stains.
Tie rod ends/steering components - Put car on jackstands. Push/pull tire at 12/6 then 3/9 o'clock.
Motor mounts? - Inspect each mount. Front is easy to see.
Low idle (under 500) - Are you sure you are reading the tachometer right? The first line is not 250 rpm, but 500.
HVAC temp **** - Pull **** to see if it is cracked.
Wipers (Switch seems funny and wipers smack hard at down stop/rest, and almost go off side of windshield. Unbolt and adjust the wiper arms to stop this.
Head unit & speakers - What is wrong with the head unit.

 

To save money, inspect parts before replacing them.

Add this to your list. Clean EGR ports.
Thanks, good info!

Replace upper right turn signal assembly - Get a junkyard part
Ordered a cheapo off Ebay last night, if only lasts to get inspected, I'll be happy

Investigate source of exhaust leak - Find leak and replace gasket and/or weld holes
Investigate AC issue and/or system leak - Start engine, turn on a/c. Do both fans run? Does the compressor clutch engage?
Not sure about the fans, I think the clutch engages as I can feel increased drag on engine

Get speedometer working properly - Does the cruise control work?
Don't think so, just sitting there the pushing the button the light doesn't come on

Clearing up headlights (Gonna try some 2500 grit and toothpaste) - Wet sand, then spray with clear coat that advertises no-yellowing
Know one off the top of your head?

Secondary concerns:
Shocks & struts - Inspect shocks for leaks/stains.
Tie rod ends/steering components - Put car on jackstands. Push/pull tire at 12/6 then 3/9 o'clock.
Motor mounts? - Inspect each mount. Front is easy to see.

Low idle (under 500) - Are you sure you are reading the tachometer right? The first line is not 250 rpm, but 500.
I'll double check, but it seems a hair under the middle line from 0 - 1k

HVAC temp **** - Pull **** to see if it is cracked.
Its the wrong ****, really hard to turn

Wipers (Switch seems funny and wipers smack hard at down stop/rest, and almost go off side of windshield. Unbolt and adjust the wiper arms to stop this.
Head unit & speakers - What is wrong with the head unit.

Turns on but no sound, and LCD is broken

Thanks a bunch for taking the time!

 

I think the middle line works out to be 800, so if you're just below it, that would about 750 rpms which is what it should read. Took me a little time to get used to that, as I'm more used to seeing it read higher on other cars.

As for the temp ****, keep in mind that it also works a cable too, so finding the right **** might be a better solution. Look on e-bay, or see if you can get the correct part number to look from other Honda parts places. I only say that, as some parts dealers offer a better discount on genuine Honda parts than other dealers do. Just a thought.

 

Yeah, the tach is weird, 0 - 1k has three lines, and the rest is in quarters.
Idle is usually, or used to be anyway, on a sticker under the hood which I have yet to check.
Sounds like it may be about right, and me just not used to a low idle. Previously I was on a Sportster which idles at 1100, so....

The **** turns easier w/o the ****, I pulled it off and use a small pair of pliers, but even the rotory switch behind it looks rigged, and the plastic missing behind the **** so I'm thinking I'll get a used HVAC control panel off Ebay.

Cruise control does work, so I'm guessing the VSS module may be good, and possibly it's solder joints on the gauge pod/speedometer?

 

There is a good youtube video on how to do the headlight. Search How to Restore Headlights PERMANENTLY. The paint he uses is Rust-Oleum Pt Ultra Cover 2X Gls Clear and looks to be appropriate for plastic and claims to be non-yellowing.

The small circuit board on the speedometer may be the issue, or the issue could be where the speedometer makes contact with the large circuit board of the cluster.

 

Awesome vid for the headlights, did mine, my sisters Odyssey, and a couple others.

Found an older Pioneer head unit, installed it and got 2 pairs of Boss 6.5's off Amazon for $32 /w free same day shipping. Although the 6.5's were a bit bigger than the speakers in there, I got them mounted in there with a little ingenuity and sounds great!

My buddy told me, over the past few years he's had almost all the exhaust replaced, which looks about true except the short pipe in between the down pipe and cat. Has a gasket on either side and spring bolts, which neither Auto Zone or Advance show in their parts diagram. Going to try and verify that's the leak today and get the gaskets and spring bolts ordered. Also, the bottom heat shield for the cat was dangling and starting to drag, so I pulled it off, but the rattle was still there which I found to be the upper heat shield which I tossed also. Will it hurt anything with no heat shields? FYI, I never drive in, nor park in tall dry grass...

I also took out the gauge cluster and reheated all the joints on the speedo PCB with some success, now it works intermittingly through the day vs previously through the month. I had only seen it come on twice before, but now kicks in usually once a day. I'll give it another go, pull the chips out, spray it down with electronics cleaner and reseat the chips. Yeah, I noticed the connection to the main board, pretty chintzy. When I go at it again I'll be adding in a wired connection with a plug.

Today, weather permitting, I'm going to hit the EGR, check out the wiper transmission, verify exhaust leak, and clean under the hood.

 

The heat shield also protects the converter from getting hit by debris and upper cover protects the floor from heat damage.

I replaced my heat shield on my 95, because I didn't want to risk replacing the converter. Plus the heat shield is there for a reason. It was a simple and easy repair.