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No brake pedal

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  #1  
Old 05-01-2011, 06:09 AM
Dave Lotterer's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 3
Default No brake pedal

I am new to the forum and I have a brake issue kicking my behind. I have been a heavy equipment/forklift technician for over 30 years and nothing has blown me away like this.

I have a 96 Accord with out ABS, disc front & drum rear and I cannot get a pedal.

The story goes like this. My son had been using the car and said it had a brake noise. I told him to park it but you know how far that went. Anyway, he ran it so long it developed a leak and he was using the p/brake to stop it. I tore it down and found the left front wheel had slung the in board pad out and the caliper piston tore up the rotor. Hence the leak from the piston seal. By using the p/brake to stop the car, the rear shoes were toast also.

I replaced both calipers, rotors (what a pain), pads, rear shoes and wheel cylinders. Bled all for wheels and no pedal. I assumed that with the continual driving with no brakes, he took out the master cylinder too. Thought since I was changing everything else, i would change the booster while I was there. Changed it all, bled the brakes again, still no pedal. I ran atleast one master cylinder of fluid through each wheel.

I thought then maybe the proportioning valve was bad. Took it off (what a pain) and disassembled it. I found the one of the pistons sticking in the bore of it's cylinder. The rubber packing on the piston was pretty swollen.

I installed a different prop. valve today and guess what, still no pedal. This prop. valve came off of a wrecked car. The brake system was still closed up so I am pretty sure it is ok. It was full of clean fluid when I took it off.

Could I have that much air in this system that there is absolutley no pedal?

HELP
 
  #2  
Old 05-01-2011, 07:56 AM
poorman212's Avatar
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Youngsville, NC
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No pedal-just goes to the floor, correct?

When you replaced the booster, did you check the rod length. If it too long then it will actually push the piston in the MC too far alowing air back into the master cyl. assuming you bench bled the mater.
 
  #3  
Old 05-01-2011, 09:43 AM
Dave Lotterer's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Charleston, SC
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Default

Yes, I bench bled the cylinder and checked the push rod length against the other one. I am real sure that I had it the same length. I am thinking that I have a ton of air in the system since the car was driven so long wihout brakes and constantly using the brake pedal. I am going to try to pressure bleed them and see if that helps frist.If that doesn't help, then I am going to pull it all back off again and recheck everything. Your thoughts.
 
  #4  
Old 05-01-2011, 10:31 AM
poorman212's Avatar
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Make sure to follow the proper seq...RR, LF, LR, RF (of course right and left are as you are sitting in the drivers seat -left hand drive).

Have to ask, the master and booster were new or at least reman products. Also the rod I was concerned with was the one from the pedal to booster. If you have the shop manual from spoonertuner (see DIY section for link to download), section 19, page 18.
 
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