If you do find there is battery power at cavity terminal pin. no. 10 (grn/wht wire), and using a jumper wire did not lower the driver's window; then at terminal no. 1 (blk) wire, test for continuity to ground with the multi-meter. One meter's lead inserted in cavity terminal pin no. 1 (blk wire) and the meter's other lead touch chassis ground (bare metal).

To test for continuity (testing if current flow through a wire or component):

1. Set to either the "ohms" or the setting it will beep when you hold the two leads together.
2. When you want to test a wire or component for continuity, touch one end of the meter's lead to one side of the wire/component; and the meter's other lead to the other end of the wire/component.

• If your meter beeps, it means you have continuity.
• If it is on ohms scale, you will have continuity when it reads close to 0 ohms.
• If it doesn't beep , shows OL (open line) or a 1 (infinity ohms); it means you don't have continuity.

 

Red Bull-1 I tried out the suggestions you made. I used a light tester probe that connects to the positive and negative to the car battery. The red Iight showing positive and the green showing a negative voltage which I assume is coming from the ground side of the circuit. The terminal #10 lit red but when I did the jump wire between #1 and #10 nothing happened. Neither did #10 to # 23. I did the jumper with the ignition on and then with it off and no results. below are the readings for each terminal based on red being positive and green being negative voltage.

1 green. 11 no light
2 green. 12 no light
3 red. 13 no light
4 no light. 14 no light
5 no light. 15 red
6 green. 16 green
7 green. 17 no light
8 no light. 18 green
9 green. 19 no light
10 red. 20 green
21 no light
22 no light
23 no light

This is based on an ex coupe with two windows. Do you have any suggestions from the terminal reading s where I need to go from here?

Thank you

 

This test using the jumper wire was to directly provide power (+) to the driver's door window motor; essentially without power having to go through the driver switch.

For the window motor to work, it just needs power (+) and ground (-).

Without a voltmeter, we don't know the voltage measurement that is coming through the Grn/Wht wire from under-dash Fuse No. 27. The test light just confirms there is power; but, not the voltage.

Just some thought right now:
On the driver window motor, there is another ground wire that goes directly to the motor; right now we don't know if the ground source is going through that.

There is a chance the driver's window motor is faulty; coinciding with another problem of the door locks and and windows not working.

Can you inspect the wiring at Connector C632 at the driver's door jamb.

 

I will try at the door hinge area. I had the flex cover off earlier and moved the wires around seeing if there was a broken wire but nothing changed. I will try it again though. another thing happened earlier when I removed the master switch unit out of the arm rest. I pressed on the passenger window switch and it lowered half way and stopped. After that no matter what way I moved the wires around I could not get the passenger window up or down again. Also, I can hear the clock sound when I press on the passenger switch, master driver side switch and also the power lock clicks. All of the click sounds are very slight sounding.

i want to thank you for all the help you have been providing. You have been very generous in providing me help.

Renfrance

 

I tried to see if there was continuity between terminal 1 and a car found. There was an open. I did try on the green and white wire terminal to the car body and received continuity. Also all the switches including the door lock switch I can get a click of the relays. The mirror controls work fine as well as all the switches light up. The shutout switch works for the passenger window. When I activate it the relay does not click. I am either making slow progress or hopelessly lost.

renfrance