Ok i have a 1990 accord DX 2.2L.

It is leaking oil and oil changers says its my pan gasket. Midas quotes $300 plus taxes. I know the exhaust goes under the pan so that has to be undone, should i attempt this myself, or pay to have it done? Im just worried about siezed bolts breaking... but that would cost more if they do it too.

also my emergency brake light is on in the car, and the parking brake is not engaged. is this light indicative of another problem?

thanks in advance,

Jeff

 

Plan on replacing all the exhaust bolts. You'll break at least some of them. Well, probably not the big ones connecting the A-pipe to the manifold. Then go ahead & do it yourself.

Check the handbrake switch, under the handbrake lever (take apart the console). Bent bracket, broken switch?

Handbrake lamp is also triggered by a float switch in the brake fluid reservoir. Fluid low? Float hangs up on the filter/screen? Float switch broken?

 

Take the $300 and buy some good jackstands and a set of metric sockets and a nice ratchet and 10" extension.
The exhaust pipe can be taken loose from the manifold[soak the 14mmnuts with penetrating fluid], then there is a hanger bracket behind the oil pan, 12mm nuts,and you can swing the exhaust out of the way. 10mm nuts and bolts to drop the pan after you have drained the oil. When installing the new pan gasket use Hondabond or ultragrey sealer at the humps/dips of the gasket on each end.
Don't over tighten the pan gasket bolts, ten ftlbs torque is plenty.I use a 1/4 drive ratchet, and tighten about 'wrist' tight.
On your brake light switch problem check the brake master reservoir, don't just look at it because the scum line might fool you.
To test the float switch, remove the cap and turn it upside down, turn on the key. Light should be off.

 

wicked, thanks guys.

I have all the tools necessary, and have done more involved jobs before, but i thought this one sounded dirtier and tougher due to the exhaust bolts siezing.

do i need new exhaust gaskets? are there O gaskets at the connections?

Will get the stuff and fix it this weekend.

Jeff

 

I replaced mine just last month and did it in about 45 mins., flat rate makes you fast, it was pretty easy i dint have truble with any ot the exhaust bolts but replaced them anyway. make sure you get that torque sequnce right. theres no reson why you cant do it. o and just remeber to fill with oil when all don

 

ok so im doing it now, i think you guys forgot to mention the flywheel cover... i have the oil pan loose, but it wont come off near the transmission. I THINK its the flywheel cover thats stopping it, so im going to remove that too. My arms are tired so i decided to break and post this.

Thanks for the help

Jeff

 

Sometimes if it's not the exact same car we own, there's little stuff like that. Hopefully it was obvious that you had to take that off. (hopefully you have it done by now)

Don't overtighten the bolts - that makes the gasket squirm around & leak.

 

Got it done, but it was way more work than i anticipated. Most of my time was wasted trying to get around more work.

Remove the downpipe from manifold.
Remove the bracket at the rear of the oil pan, in front of the flex pipe.
Remove the cross beam that goes under the pan, with the tow hook on it.
Remove the bracket at the front of the transmission, and engine. 3 bolts that hold the tranny to the engine, this bracket covers one of the bolts for the next piece.
Remove the flywheel cover
Remove the oilpan.

install in the reverse order.

Took me quite a few hours on my back, but i was alone, a hand would have sped things up.

Thanks guys, well worth the 300 it was going to cost for someone else to do it.

Jeff