I've been reading, and testing now for three days, and still can't fix this so here we go.

I bought an 01 Honda Accord 4cyl auto. The guy I bought the car from said the alternator was bad, but they had bought a new battery.

So I checked voltage on the battery, and sure enough its just batt volt at 12.4v.

I buy a new alternator from O'Rielys, and install it the same day. Crank the car, and measure the voltage, 12.1, huuummmmmm.

So I take the alt back, and buy another alt from Advance autoparts. BUT, I first have them test the new alt before I bring it home.

I get home, install the new alt, and again, just 12.0v. So I connect my code checker, and find code 1298 high eld voltage.

I get back on the net, and search that code. Seems that most people are just bypassing the eld switch. I call the local Honda dealer, and ask the price for this switch. I about pass out when he tells me the eld switch is $230 because you have to buy the whole $^$%^$%^ fuse box.

So now I bypass the eld by doing what others have done with good success, and that is disconnect the eld plug, leave it disconnected, and run a 820ohm resistor,1/2 watt from the black wire on the eld plug to the green wire on the plug.
Post 9
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...-bypass-32726/

Still not charging. I did cut the ends off the battery terminal wire as they were a bit corroded, and added a new pos batt terminal.

I checked all of the fuses on both sides of the dash [I still don't what everyone is talking about with the fuses under the dash as I don't see any] my car has the fuses on each side of the dash, not under.

I also checked the fuses under the hood fusebox, and voltage to both 100amp, and 50 amp breakers, and all was 12v.

So I admit defeat, what do you guys think?

 

Check the condition of the alternator output cable (#5 in attached image) that is attached to the under-hood fuse box. This is alternator cable (B cable) that supplies current to the battery.

Measure the alternator voltage output at this cable with the car on.

 

It was 12.1v with the engine running.

 

Raise the engine speed to 2,000 rpm and hold it there, see if the voltage increase from 12.1V. If it does, what is the voltage?

 

Ok, I let the engine run for over one minute, then had the wife to rev, and hold at 2k.

Volts at battery were 12.1v, at the fuse box batt, and alt 12.1v, and at the alt itself same thing 12.1v.

 

Check the driver's side dash Fuse No. 6 (15A) to see if it is blown. Also, check if there is battery voltage at the fuse. This fuse (via the Blk/Yel wire) supplies the ignition input that turns on the alternator/regulator assembly.

 

Congratulations you have solved the problem sir!!!!!!!!!

Turns out there was NO fuse at all in slot number 6. I used a spare 20 amp just to test [I don't have any 15amp mini fuses], and went out to check the batt, and it was 14.1v right on the money.

Thanks so much, now I can sell the car in peace.

 

Good to hear.