Good afternoon,
I drive a 2010 Honda Accord LX-P, 2.4L 4cyl with automatic transmission. I bought my car used (it's a certified pre-owned) almost exactly one year ago. Within a couple of months of getting the car, I noticed the rear driver's-side window opened/closed much more slowly than the other three. I don't normally open that window, anyway, so it didn't bother me.
Today, I tried to open it and it was VERY slow; what's worse is it didn't want to close! I held the button and it didn't move. A minute or two later, I held the button again and it moved up a little more, then stopped. A few minutes later I held the button again and the window begrudgingly closed.
Is this a dead giveaway for a dead/dying motor (regulator) or could this indicate an electrical short or bad master switch? I haven't tried using the back seat switch yet because I'm afraid the glass will get stuck down (terrible weather here right now this winter).
All input will be GREATLY appreciated!

 

The issue can be with either:

• window motor/regulator
• wiring
• switch

Probably not a short; generally, a short is an accidental connection of a wire to ground or to another wire. It can possibly be due to an intermittent open in the switch or wiring; but, sounds more like a window motor/regulator issue.

Although there are all different ways to test either the switches and/or motor, if you have a voltmeter and currently don't want to take a chance of not being able to close back the window, you could try the following:

When you open the left rear door (at the left B-pillar), you'll see a black rubber grommet which protects a wire harness.

If gently pull out a black rubber grommet from the B-pillar, you'll see a white 13P connector. If you disconnect the 13P white connector, you can connect the voltmeter leads to the Lt Blue wire female side (pin 6) and Grn wire female side (pin 12) to test for power from the driver's master switch. Turn the ignition to ON (III) and try using the driver's master switch for the left rear window. If there is a good voltage reading, power is coming through the wiring to that point.

 

Hello New Member..Try using the back seat switch, but dont let the window go all the way down so that you can force it back up with a couple of pcs of rubber..

 

Thanks for the replies so far. I parked my car in the garage when I got home today [wife's car is usually there because she leaves for work later than me...a Honda Civic ]. I decided to chance testing the back seat switch to see if the back window would work. No luck....
When I pushed the button, I could hear a faint noise and the window budged ever so slightly, then stopped. I reversed the window and then it moved no more. However, I could still hear the sound when I activated the button.
Bad window motor?
I can still run the 13p connector test tomorrow (my buddy is lending me his multimeter) if it's necessary at this point.
Thanks in advance for your responses!
~cbjfan2009

 

Sounds more like a window motor/regulator issue. If you're willing to take the door panel off, you can briefly apply direct 12 volt power and ground to the window motor 2P grey wire connector; one motor wire is red and the other brown.

To lower: Positive (+) to brown wire and negative (-) to red wire,
To raise: Positive (+) to red wire and negative (-) to brown wire.

 

My car repair experience is pretty limited. The motor and regulator are two separate parts, correct? The motor receives power and spins to move the regulator up and down? Or, does the regulator actually have some self-actuation?
How do I apply direct 12v power to the motor (aka, what is the power source and connection method)?
Thanks a ton, Redbull-1

 

On your car the motor and regulator are installed/replaced as one assembly. The window rides up and down kind of like an elevator.



A 12 volt power source can be from things such as:

• your car's battery (using some long wires, such as speaker wires)
• 12 volt lantern battery (this is what I use)
• 12 volt drill or other power tool battery
• etc.

 

Makes sense how it's "one assembly". I only have 19.2v power tools I'll see if I can dig up some wire to run from the battery.
If I pick up some speaker wire, do you recommend using 18, 16, 14 gauge, etc? Then, do I wrap one end of the wire around the battery posts and (Carefully) connect bare wire to the appropriate pin connectors as you mentioned in #5?
Thanks again!

 

16 gauge should be sufficient. You could wrap the wire, use some electrical tape, etc. on the positive battery post. Ground can be at the negative battery post or body/chassis ground. You're only going to briefly touch the terminals for the wires going to the motor, you don't want to take a chance to burn out the motor if it is still good.

Btw: You can always make a set-up to use a 12 voltage regulator and use your 19.2 volt power tool battery.

 

I appreciate the help so far. I will have to wait until it has warmed up a bit before I risk taking apart the door (don't want to crack any plastic tabs in the cold). Sadly, it hasn't been about 20*F in weeks I'll update once I've had the opportunity.