I recently got my leaking gas tank (after market) changed. There was no check engine light before that and the EVAP canister and the solenoid was all changed 6 months ago. The next day I got a P1457. No P1456. Went back to the mechanic who found a cut hose (probably broke it when replacing the tank) which goes to the filter canister (Enlarged Image ) Part no 17.
Got him a replacement and this time the code P1457 came back after 2 days instead of 1.

The mechanic jacked it up and claims everything looks good and is blaming the after market tank. I dont trust him given he claims the hose was all torn up before. Planning to take it to a smoke test, but was wondering if someone in this forum can give me some pointers. Apologize if I have missed out any details.

Desperate for help will be more appropriate.

1998 honda accord LX 4 cylinder with 186000 miles.

 

P1457 is still saying that your EVAP system thinks that the canister system (including most of those hoses) isn't airtight like it should be.

It'll be royal pain, but using that diagram you should check that each & every hose is connected up to the right place. Check there aren't any others that are cracked or split. I think you can reach a lot of them without dropping the tank.

The pictures from a shop manual show the hoses much better than that part-catalog picture. Also, the shop manual has about 7 pages of tests for those hoses, valves, & connectors.

Finally, there's a fuel-tank pressure sensor there somewhere (I don't remember which part #). If that's flaky or disconnected, that can cause the problem.

(I sold that car years ago & don't have the shop manual anymore)

 

"shop manual" : you mean the manual that comes with the car?

The mechanic double checked the hoses and I am practically a novice. Dont see anything loose or cracked.

If the ORVR shut valve or the Fuel Pump is not air tight would it give out P1457..Praying it is not the ORVR because it seems like I have to drop the tank

 

I had that code for my daughter's car (1998 Accord) a few years ago. I could smell gasoline and thought it was a fuel line leak. Turns out it was parts 36,14,7... all those was inside part #27. This was a shotgun approach but that fixed it.

In your case, I would also look at 27,6,21-24, 16, 17... check all those hoses on the right side of the diagram...

Before you do anything else, CHECK your fuel cap. Maybe it is not compatible with the new tank? The main issue is the EVAP system is not air tight. Fuel cap is one of them.

Do you smell any fuel?

 

Cannot smell gas at all and as I mentioned in my OP the evap canister and the valve is new.

I would like to rule out the ORVR valve and fuel pump before I proceed with ripping apart the rest of my system. Anyway to test it?

Also the hose(part number 17) is the one that connects part number 30(JOINT, DRAIN BYPASS TUBE) to the vapor canister (part 9). Because the hose at part no 30 end was torn and seems like he had to tighten part number 30 before plugging the new part number 17 in. Is it possible they damaged part 30 while removing the tank causing P1457 and tightening did not solve it? How do I access part 30? BTW, I dont get that normally hissing sound when I open the gas cap any more. Does it come only when the tank is full?

BTW, where is part 27 located?

Also, planning for a smoke test on this. worth it ?

 

"Shop manual" is a repair manual that does not come with the car.

 

Thanks Jim.

http://www.gvrdeu.org/Honda%20FSM/Ac...ccord%20SM.pdf

Is that the one? Will take a deeper look but it seems like I need to buy some Honda specific expensive tools to diagnize. right?

I posted a few other question like the part number 30 and whether a smoke test would help accelerate to find the root cause of the problem.
Any chance you would know about it?

 

That's the one.
Start at page 11-152, and even go back & look through the section about P1456 just because it's so closely related.

No real special tools required. A MityVac which is useful for a lot of other stuff too. The Honda PGM tester isn't needed. The instructions give alternate methods using a DMM and a few jumper wires. If you fix Hondas for a living, you can't afford the time to do the cumbersome job of unplugging stuff & messing around with jumper wires.

I never got all the way through that. My vent-shut valve was corroded shut, so when I applied battery voltage it didn't even click. I replaced it, crossed my fingers, and the P1457 never came back.

 

It's always possible some parts are damaged from overtightning things. Maybe more likely, a wire might be pinched & cut from wrestling with the tank. That's where you check stuff with the multi-meter & jumper wires.

A smoke test can quickly find a leaking hose, but if you don't exercise all the valves, the smoke might not get inside the cracked hose/fitting so it never leaks out. Smoke test is just one more tool in your arsenal - not the answer to EVERYTHING.

 

The more common issue is the EVAP shutoff valve which mounts into the canister. The valve itself usually always works when tested manually with direct 12v current, but the problem is the metal plate on the valve assembly. It is common for them to rust out and have a very small leak thus triggering your code. Not saying that is your issue but I have done countless. If the valve won't unbolt from the canister then you will have to get a new one. You can manually test all the EVAP valves to hear if they click. If they all click your next option is to do a smoke test or replace that valve and see.