"mode 6 on the scanner"
Which scanner would give me that information?

"The PGM tester allows you to command the valve actions directly. Without that, you have to unplug the wires from the valve & make up jumper wires to energize the valve & see if it operates."

So, if no PGM tester given those run in 1000 dollars, I guess I cannot test the individual component unless I "unplug the wires". Unplugging the wires could cause a potential good valve go bad. right?

For e.g. I want to do some fixing with the ORVR, but if my check engine light comes up beause of the potentially bad purge valve how would I know I fixed the ORVR? Does Torque Pro show me this data? I have the app but not sure where to look for it.

 

Tried using shears and able to get through the trunk meta, but not through the frame. That needs major strength.

 

Here is the latest on thhis. On 6/18 as I mentioned above cut through the trunk and gave up as I could not go further through the frame. So, abandoned that project. The only 2 things I did was press on the ORVR valve desperately and pressed hard on the tube connecting the EVAP canister to the ORVR from that small space made. I reset the check engine light and it has been 9 days and over 400 miles with plenty of starts/stop/overnight cooling (which includes a 100 mile trip and then back) and no check engine light. Keeping my fingers crossed. This thing will drive me crazy :-)

And the difficult choice I have to make in another 4 weeks (assuming no check engine light) is should I sink more in this car given what I have already sunk in.
For e..g I know I am due for the following
1) Timing Belt (+Water Pump + Tensioner)
2) Valve gasket
3) Mounts
4) Something about rear axle leaking.

The car though runs extremely smooth, except for the squealing noise (only every now and then and more pronounced during a cold start and/or idling and a few minutes of driving) and my guess is that it is one of the belts.

 

Since this is the most current P1457 thread (and most informative), I thought I'd ask here about it. I've got a 99 Accord LX, and I've got this dreaded code (along with code P0420). I do know I've got some sort of leak back there, as when I had the tires off, I was getting some fuel coming out (had filled the tank the previous day), but couldn't see where. I'm suspecting a rusted thru spot on the fuel tank (wouldn't be the 1st I've had to replace due to rust, as I live in the "salt belt"). I guess what I'm asking about, is how hard is it/was it to drop the rear sub frame out to change the fuel tank? Also, is that the best time to check all of the EVAP components, and replace any suspect hoses? I'm only asking as I'm going to have to do this one of these days (after it warms up again...probably next year), and I'd like to get some tips and tricks to make the job go smoother.

 

"Toe" - you should know I hate to replace parts without testing.

In these 6th gens there are about three things that are common with the 1457. There is the vent, the shut and the canister - I put the canister in there since the car is in a "rusty" area.

So you can test these or just bite the bullet - again I'm don't want to sound like replacing parts is the answer - and price out the three and decide. It beats replacing the price of the tank and your time to do it.

 

Oh, I know you hate replacing parts. I do as well, but sometimes if you're in there doing something else and you see something that's not kosher, you try to take care of it while you're there.
So far I've cleared that code twice, only to have it come up again, along with a strong fuel smell so I know somethings not right back there I've "popped" the tank cover off, and can see rust and dirt on the tank top. Also, this was a dirt road car, and for some reason they're more prone to rust in places like the tank and other assorted spots (I've got a 97 and a 2000 Accord here to see the differences) as the county uses different stuff for treating dirt roads around here. I'm really thinking it's a fuel tank due to the fuel I saw coming out (while I had the tires off), and the fuel smell inside the car while it was in motion. I've still got a little over a half a tank of fuel in it at this time.

 

Since you have a "spare car" around, you will need to "dive in" and see what is up.

There are a number of things it could be....the tank, the fuel lines, purge/shut/canister. I was just going for what I would call the most common failures that trip the 1457. In the end, there is no telling what those iron jawed termites might have gotten into.

When under there, is there any signs of fuel leaking....wet lines, wet areas, ect?

 

Yeah, I've been driving the 97 for the last couple of weeks (I actually never took it off the road) after I saw the fuel leaking out when I had the rear tires off. I only drove it a couple of times (to put fuel in it, and make an 11 mile run into town). I first had it up on the left side, then got a wiff of fuel, then saw it dripping on the ground. Same thing happened when I had the right side up in the air. A day later I saw it dripping when I had the front up in the air (was replacing the flex joint in the exhaust). Since it was raw fuel leaking out, I thought it was the tank, since the vent is in the front side of the tank (from what I've seen on e-bay, since I was looking at fuel tanks). I've basically stopped driving it, as I'd like to get the leak fixed. I'm betting that the leak is an "uncontrolled" vent, and that might be kicking the code. Not 100% sure though. But then I haven't done the gas cap test or any of the other tests yet that Jim Blake mentions. I've tried looking for the emission devices, but can't really see them, and raising 1 side of the car still causes fuel to leak out. I may have to drive the fuel level down some more (or pump some out) to get it up in the air to have a better look.
The PO never mentioned it, but then I only paid 350 for the car (it needed a harmonic balancer and timing belt adjustment). When I got the car it was almost out of fuel and the low fuel light was on too.
Unfortunately for me, I've got an 80 TA Pace car on the rotissery getting sheet metal replaced (it's in the shop for a full resto), and that takes up quite a bit of space. This means it won't be getting done any time soon, as I need it to warm up a little more since I'll be working outside.

 

A fuel leak is never a good thing, but maybe it can help point to the area that needs attention. There is a big metal loop under the center-rear, looks like it could tie the car down to a transporter. That's the "official" rear-center lift point. Pick it up there, put jackstands under the rear side jacking points, then look for where the leak is coming from?? You might be able to get inspection-mirrors around & above the tank to have a look around.

 

Thanks Jim, I never thought about lifting it up from the "rear center", but I may have to take a look at it this week (we're supposed to get up into the mid to upper 40's this week). At least spending some time on here helped me locate the evap stuff that's throwing a code (under the left rear seat), so it wasn't a total loss.
In case you're wonder what I was looking for, it was the fan control set up for her car. It appears that the blower relay took a dump. I pulled it out and tested it, and found it was bad and rusty underneath. Got 1 on order, but for now she's just using the hi speed circuit. I'm just glad the control unit didn't die, as that thing is expensive (almost what I paid for the 99 ). I do know you can solder a wire in to get some more life out of them, but it's still doing it's job, so I'm leaving it alone.
On the plus side, I did get the wife's hood painted (her 2000 Accord), and it's a pretty close match (she's happy with it). That got done before Thanksgiving, while it was still warm (before the snow fell).
Thanks again guys, I do appreciate the help.