I replaced the head gaskets/ timing belt and water pump on my daughters 2002 Accord v6 EX. I had to use TimeSert thread repair inserts on the front side of the engine 4,5,6 cylinders. I have good compression and the timing marks are in alignment. I cleaned the throttle body using throttle body cleaner from the back side only originally. I used new o-rings on the bottom of the fuel injectors. I did not remove the tops from the rails. I torqued all the upper intake except the very lower part as I could not fit a torque wrench on those nuts. I do not smell any gas or see any leaks around the injectors. I lubricated the o-rings with engine oil for assembly. After I had the P1519 come up I pulled apart the front and cleaned it and the IAC. If I start the car the RPM's go to 2,500. If I disconnect the IAC connection it drops to 1,500 and starts to surge. I let the car warm up with the radiator cap off and refilled the coolant lost from the water pump change. There should be no air pockets.

Is the IAC bad at this point? By spraying it did I break it? I have a testor light I could try to apply voltage to the sensor but I am not sure how to do that.

I should mention that I busted the plastic surround for the ECT sensor and have a new one on order. I do not have any ECT codes.

 

Have a look at this link. http://www.gvrdeu.org/Honda%20FSM/Ac...0SM%20Supp.pdf as it's the V6 supplement for 6th gen Accords (98-02). It's about 1200 pages, but it's a complete manual. I hope this helps.

 

The link is broken. Try clicking on it.

 

Yeah, it's not working any more. Seems like that's a common theme with Honda FSM links. Even those on Honda Tech don't work anymore. Sorry about that.

Are you sure you don't have a vacuum leak or leaks? Or maybe the throttle cable doesn't have any slack? You did get a code, did you clear it and see if it came back? You know to verify it's kicking one. Usually a high idle like you're describing is a pretty good vacuum leak. You cold try shooting WD-40 on all joints and "O" rings to see if you can find it. WD-40 will cause the rpms to rise, as it's flammable.

 

I completely removed the upper and lower intake again including the injectors. I have new lower o rings on all the injectors. I put it back together again using the torque sequence for the upper intake. Now if I start the car it idols at around 1,200 to 1,300 rpm for a few minutes steadily. Once it gets warm it starts to surge the idol and the base idol creeps up. I have squirted water all over the lower intake, injectors and throttle body with no change in idol. I also tried another IAC and it behaves the same. I did put new motor mounts on. I did verify that the vacuum lines seem to be attached as they offer resistance when I jack the car up and try to pull them loose from underneath, If I remove the IAC connection the idol drops as it should.

Does the IAC circuit run from the harness at the IAC to the ECU up under the dash? I just want to confirm I did not plug anything back in wrong by the number 1 cylinder or under the power steering pump as I had some connections pull out and had to put it back together.

This article explains the IAC in detail. More than you ever wanted to know about the Honda IACV - Fuelly Forums if someone is looking,

 

I get a p0505 code now. I removed the inlet in front of the throttle body, started the car and put my finger over the hole for the IAC. The car died right away. I read that this means that I do not have a vacuum leak. I also sprayed WD-40 all over the place, including the 5 injectors I can get to, and saw no change in idle.

Is there a way to test the three leads going into the IAC with a multi meter?

 

It was possible on the 4-cylinder accords to switch the connector for the MAP and the TPS sensors. I"m not sure if this is possible on the V6.

Here are the proper wire colors for the sensors near the throttle body. This is a pretty quick and simple check.

MAP yel/red, grn/wht, red/grn
TPS grn/blk, red/blk, yel/blu

 

Thank you for the reply's. The MAP is yel/red, grn/wht, gry/red so the last wire is different. It might be possible to reverse the two but it would require stretching the harness in an unnatural way.

I ran the car for 15 to 20 minutes yesterday and let it completely warm up and do a relearn. The idle starts at 1,200 to 1,300 then after about 2 minutes it surges for a minute then settles on a rough idle at about 1,500. The only code I get now is the P0505.

I could have reversed the wires under the number 1 cylinder and the one underneath the power steering pump as they pulled out on disassembly. The two wires under the power steering pump looked identical when I put them back together. I have attached a picture I took prior to disassembly. If someone knows what both sides of those connectors should look like I would appreciate it. Or if this would not be related in any way.

 

It seems the p0505 is typically the IAC malfunctioning. I had 2, one from a junk yard and the one that was working fine prior to tear down. I soaked the junk yard one in cleaner then added some WD-40 and reassembled and still had the issue. I let it completely cool off, started it and began tapping the IAC with a ball peen hammer many times. The idle eventually went back to just over 700 RPM.