1)2003 Honda Accord

2) Yes

3) It goes all the way down and that's it.


The other three windows go up and down but not the passenger right rear.
I have replaced the window regulator and motor but still nothing.

 

Although it can also be due to a wiring issue or driver's door mcu, my best guess would be a faulty right rear passenger window switch. The rear window switch has two separate relays (one to open and one to close). They work together to operate the motor. When you press open, the open relay is energized to provides power (+) to the motor and the close relay provides ground (-) to the motor. When you press close, the close relay is energized and provides power to the motor while the open relay provides ground to the motor, and the motor goes in the opposite direction.

Do you have a voltmeter to test? If not, then I can still try to guide you with a different test though.

 

Lower your right rear window first before you start the following tests. Report back the results for each of the test steps. If you need to lower the right rear window, remove all jumper wires and plug connectors back in.

1. Unplug the 23-P white harness connector from the driver's door multiplex control unit/master window switch. See post #2 at the beginning of this thread for the video to take the master switch out.

At the 23-P harness connector for the door multiplex control unit, attach a jumper wire from cavity #10 (where the Red/Yel wire is) to cavity #12 (where the Blu/Orn wire is). Leave the 23-P connector unplugged. Next connect a jumper wire from cavity #3 (where the Wht/Grn wire is) to body ground. (See first attached image.)

The right rear window should go up. (Once it goes up, remove the jumper wires, to prevent burning out the motor.)

If the right rear window did not go up, continue to test #2a or 2b. Leave the jumper wires attached to the unplugged 23-P connector from test #1.

2a. If you have a voltmeter:
If the right rear window did not go up from test #1, then unplug the right rear window switch harness connector.

At the rear window switch's harness connector:

• With a voltmeter's red lead at cavity #1 (where the Blu/Orn wire is) and the voltmeter's black lead to body ground, is there power/voltage showing?
• With a voltmeter's red lead at cavity #5 (where the Ye/Blu wire is) and the voltmeter's black lead to body ground, is there power/voltage showing?

2b. If you don't have a voltmeter:

If the right rear window did not go up from test #1, then unplug the right rear window switch harness connector.

At the rear window switch's harness connector (see second image):

Attach a jumper wire from cavity #1 (where the Blu/Orn wire is) to cavity #3 (where the Red/Wht wire is). Attach a different jumper wire from cavity # 4 (where the Blk wire is) to cavity # 6 (where the Blu/Blk wire is). - Does the window go up?

If the window did not go up in in the previous test, attach a jumper wire from cavity #5 (where the Yel/Blu wire is) to cavity #3 (where the Red/Wht wire is). Attach a different jumper wire from cavity # 4 (where the Blk wire is) to cavity # 6 (where the Blu/Blk wire is). - Does the window go up?

 

Hey guys, i'm knew up here. I need some help. I have a 2007 accord and nothing on master switch is working except the door lock switch. I replaced switch the first time and it worked four times then quit. Sent that one back and got another one. That one worked one time and quit. I am thinking more if the lines of getting two bad switches. Any suggestions?

 

I was really hoping you could help me understand why this bad ground is going to be fixed once you install new multiplex door unit? I have this problem right now and maybe i just dont know any better but isnt the problem in the ground wire? I tested like you said and all windows worked.

 

The door multiplex control unit (mcu) is one of several multiplex control units in your car. The generic term that other car manufacturers use is Body Control Module (BCM). That specific door MCU controls both the power windows and power door locks.


The symptoms of all the passenger windows not working with the exception of the driver’s window is usually due to the driver’s door MCU. The Wht/Grn wire from the driver’s door MCU is used as the wire to control the 3 passenger windows via a power window relay located in the under-dash fuse/relay box. (If you were to turn the Main Switch off, it would also not send the ground.) The power window relay needs that ground (-) to energize the relay coil, which in turn will close the relay contacts and send power (+) to the passenger windows. See my various posts in this thread, especially post # 11 with the circuit diagram and what I wrote.


When the driver’s door MCU malfunctions or the main switch is turned off, the signal (which happens to be ground) is not sent to the relay coil.



There are several ways to test by applying "ground":


(1) spare wire from cavity terminal no. 3 (wht/grn wire) to any body ground source; or

(2) jumper wire from cavity terminal no. 1 (blk) to cavity terminal no. 3 (wht/grn); or

(3) jumper wire from cavity terminal no. 2 (blk) to cavity terminal no. 3 (wht/grn).


By jumping cavity wire terminal no. 1 or no. 2 to cavity wire terminal no. 3; if the passenger windows works, this would also mean the ground wires going to the door MCU is okay; which would further point to possibly a faulty door MCU.


In addition, if your driver’s window works and door locks work without issue, this would further indicate the ground wires going to the door MCU is probably okay. So, issue is most likely due to the driver’s door MCU.

 

Thanks you all for this thread.

I'm wondering if this is a known issue because I have Honda Accord 2006 2.4 4dr ex 5-speed and only the drivers side moves.

I will review the mcu option because we were going to purchase regulators.