Please help!!!!! F22 wont spark!!!
#1
Please help!!!!! F22 wont spark!!!
HEY GUYS IM PRETTY NEW TO YOUR FORUM...so here is my problem...the other day i replaced the brake master cylinder...i go to start my car and wont start..it will turn over b ut no fire...well i replaced the cap, rotar,ignitor,coil,the whole distributor lol...and still nothing! i dont know what else it could be...can someone please help me i just had a baby 3 weeks ago and i need to drive my car.....OH BTW ITS A 1994 EX WITH A 1997 F22 V TEC SWAP.... AND I STRESS I DID NOT DO THE SWAP I BOUGHT IT THAT WAY
#2
HEY GUYS IM PRETTY NEW TO YOUR FORUM...so here is my problem...the other day i replaced the brake master cylinder...i go to start my car and wont start..it will turn over b ut no fire...well i replaced the cap, rotar,ignitor,coil,the whole distributor lol...and still nothing! i dont know what else it could be...can someone please help me i just had a baby 3 weeks ago and i need to drive my car.....OH BTW ITS A 1994 EX WITH A 1997 F22 V TEC SWAP.... AND I STRESS I DID NOT DO THE SWAP I BOUGHT IT THAT WAY
Hi,
Congrats on the baby!
When you click the ignition to "on" Do you hear the fuel pump kick in? This will be a little humming noise that is there for a second or two.
#4
ok i live about 10 miles from where my car is and i asked my stepmom to go out and try what u said now she says she does not hear the fuel pump turn on but would that stop it from getting spark? and its no0t a fuse because i checked EVERY fuse in that car and there all good
#5
ok i live about 10 miles from where my car is and i asked my stepmom to go out and try what u said now she says she does not hear the fuel pump turn on but would that stop it from getting spark? and its no0t a fuse because i checked EVERY fuse in that car and there all good
You ave three options for this.
1) Get a brand new relay. This will cost you some money.
2) Get a pre owned relay from a self serve junk yard (inexpensive route, but you do not know what you are getting. The issue can be the same with that relay.)
3) Get a tested relay from a full serve salvage yard. This will cost you money as they had to pull it, but at least you know it works.
4) and my favorite option.. Pull the relay and resolder the connections yourself.
The PGM-FI relay (main relay) is located above the cruise control unit on the driver's side under dash area. It will say Miatsu or something like that on it.
To find the cracked solder is easy. Look at all the solder points and locate the fine hairline cracks on all the solder points.
How do you know you are not getting spark?
#6
hmmm that sounds like a good idea with the solider urself option...i know because we tested the plug arc way and tested off the distributor...but what im wondering is would that just happen with no warning at all? like come on slowly or just happen and go out?
#7
I am willing to wager that your main relay is pooched. This is a common problem for this car. The main relay has your fuel pump relay connected to it. What happens is that the solder on the circuit board will break creating a gap in the connections.
You ave three options for this.
1) Get a brand new relay. This will cost you some money.
2) Get a pre owned relay from a self serve junk yard (inexpensive route, but you do not know what you are getting. The issue can be the same with that relay.)
3) Get a tested relay from a full serve salvage yard. This will cost you money as they had to pull it, but at least you know it works.
4) and my favorite option.. Pull the relay and resolder the connections yourself.
The PGM-FI relay (main relay) is located above the cruise control unit on the driver's side under dash area. It will say Miatsu or something like that on it.
To find the cracked solder is easy. Look at all the solder points and locate the fine hairline cracks on all the solder points.
How do you know you are not getting spark?
You ave three options for this.
1) Get a brand new relay. This will cost you some money.
2) Get a pre owned relay from a self serve junk yard (inexpensive route, but you do not know what you are getting. The issue can be the same with that relay.)
3) Get a tested relay from a full serve salvage yard. This will cost you money as they had to pull it, but at least you know it works.
4) and my favorite option.. Pull the relay and resolder the connections yourself.
The PGM-FI relay (main relay) is located above the cruise control unit on the driver's side under dash area. It will say Miatsu or something like that on it.
To find the cracked solder is easy. Look at all the solder points and locate the fine hairline cracks on all the solder points.
How do you know you are not getting spark?
#8
Pulling the relay sounds easier than it is. Especially if you are tall. I am 6'2 and had to fold myself under the dash to see the relay.
The repair option is your best option. If you have never soldered before, I reccomend you do some practicing on some junk relays from a wrecking yard before you do the real thing. Last thing you want is a trial by fire...sure, that takes the element of danger and adventure out, but it is a safe option. ha ha ha.
Back to the spark..
Did you check to make sure everything was lined up at TDC when you reinstalled the distributor? Did you check to make sure the firing sequence was correct when you hooked up the plugs? Did you check to make sure all the clips are connected and the ground points are attached and cleaned? It is some pretty basic stuff but sometimes easy to overlook when you are stressed or have other things on your mind.
It is possible that the distributor is pooched. Try to grab one from a self serve wrecker. Try to grab one from a car that has been damaged in a collision, or looks like it was well maintained before it went to the wrecking yard. The nice thing about this is that the wrecker will give you some sort of warranty period such as a 90day exchange or refund. The pre owned distributors cost next to nothing.
I recently went through 2 bad distributors in a row.
To answer your question about them suddenly going on you.. yes they do. At least in my case they did.
#9
The main relay is attached to the left side of the dash. You can not miss it. You will need a 10mm deep socket to access the bolt that holds it in. I used a 1/4 inch drive with a good long extension. Putting it back in can be an excercise in patience.
Use a very small flat tipped screw driver to remove the 4 clips holding in the relay. BE VERY CAREFULL! These can break easy. Once the clips are out of the way, then you just slide the relay out of the housing unit.
#10
Pulling the relay sounds easier than it is. Especially if you are tall. I am 6'2 and had to fold myself under the dash to see the relay.
The repair option is your best option. If you have never soldered before, I reccomend you do some practicing on some junk relays from a wrecking yard before you do the real thing. Last thing you want is a trial by fire...sure, that takes the element of danger and adventure out, but it is a safe option. ha ha ha.
Back to the spark..
Did you check to make sure everything was lined up at TDC when you reinstalled the distributor? Did you check to make sure the firing sequence was correct when you hooked up the plugs? Did you check to make sure all the clips are connected and the ground points are attached and cleaned? It is some pretty basic stuff but sometimes easy to overlook when you are stressed or have other things on your mind.
It is possible that the distributor is pooched. Try to grab one from a self serve wrecker. Try to grab one from a car that has been damaged in a collision, or looks like it was well maintained before it went to the wrecking yard. The nice thing about this is that the wrecker will give you some sort of warranty period such as a 90day exchange or refund. The pre owned distributors cost next to nothing.
I recently went through 2 bad distributors in a row.
To answer your question about them suddenly going on you.. yes they do. At least in my case they did.
The repair option is your best option. If you have never soldered before, I reccomend you do some practicing on some junk relays from a wrecking yard before you do the real thing. Last thing you want is a trial by fire...sure, that takes the element of danger and adventure out, but it is a safe option. ha ha ha.
Back to the spark..
Did you check to make sure everything was lined up at TDC when you reinstalled the distributor? Did you check to make sure the firing sequence was correct when you hooked up the plugs? Did you check to make sure all the clips are connected and the ground points are attached and cleaned? It is some pretty basic stuff but sometimes easy to overlook when you are stressed or have other things on your mind.
It is possible that the distributor is pooched. Try to grab one from a self serve wrecker. Try to grab one from a car that has been damaged in a collision, or looks like it was well maintained before it went to the wrecking yard. The nice thing about this is that the wrecker will give you some sort of warranty period such as a 90day exchange or refund. The pre owned distributors cost next to nothing.
I recently went through 2 bad distributors in a row.
To answer your question about them suddenly going on you.. yes they do. At least in my case they did.