Please help!!!!! F22 wont spark!!!
It is inside the car. The main relay is about 3 ish inches from the bottom of the dash.
The main relay is attached to the left side of the dash. You can not miss it. You will need a 10mm deep socket to access the bolt that holds it in. I used a 1/4 inch drive with a good long extension. Putting it back in can be an excercise in patience.
Use a very small flat tipped screw driver to remove the 4 clips holding in the relay. BE VERY CAREFULL! These can break easy. Once the clips are out of the way, then you just slide the relay out of the housing unit.
The main relay is attached to the left side of the dash. You can not miss it. You will need a 10mm deep socket to access the bolt that holds it in. I used a 1/4 inch drive with a good long extension. Putting it back in can be an excercise in patience.

Use a very small flat tipped screw driver to remove the 4 clips holding in the relay. BE VERY CAREFULL! These can break easy. Once the clips are out of the way, then you just slide the relay out of the housing unit.
yes everything is attached and clean...i just a distributor last night from this kid who wrecked his car 2 weeks ago...so it should be fine...and the firing sequence is corect..honestly i think it might be that relay now that u say something about it...its gonna be another task im sure tho
ha ha ha. Fuel and spark are two separate issues.
I resoldered the my main relay and did not have spark from the distributor. Replaced it twice and I had spark and she runs like a champ.
AFTER you repair the relay check for the fuel pump noise by turning the ignition to the "on" position". Afterwards disconnect the battery and proceed to setting everything back in the motor to TDC.

Did you check to see if your cam was moving when you were turning the motor?
You can get an assistant to try to crank the car with the key. Pull the oil cap, shine a flashlight in and when the engine cranks, look to see if your cam and rocker arms are moving. You only need to crank for a few seconds (2-3) to see this happen. If there is no camshaft movement and no rocker arm movement then I would put a culprit at a broken timing belt. This is the least likely scenario.
ha ha ha. Fuel and spark are two separate issues.
I resoldered the my main relay and did not have spark from the distributor. Replaced it twice and I had spark and she runs like a champ.
AFTER you repair the relay check for the fuel pump noise by turning the ignition to the "on" position". Afterwards disconnect the battery and proceed to setting everything back in the motor to TDC.

Did you check to see if your cam was moving when you were turning the motor?
You can get an assistant to try to crank the car with the key. Pull the oil cap, shine a flashlight in and when the engine cranks, look to see if your cam and rocker arms are moving. You only need to crank for a few seconds (2-3) to see this happen. If there is no camshaft movement and no rocker arm movement then I would put a culprit at a broken timing belt. This is the least likely scenario.
Fuel & spark are indeed 2 separate issues. When it doesn't start, you FIRST need to decide which one is missing. Before spending a bunch of money on distributor parts.
Distributor, coil, & spark are not powered through the main relay.
TDC = top-dead-center. The position of the crankshaft & camshaft when checking the alignment ("timing") of the camshaft.
Distributor, coil, & spark are not powered through the main relay.
TDC = top-dead-center. The position of the crankshaft & camshaft when checking the alignment ("timing") of the camshaft.
TDC is Top Dead Centre. This is where the piston in the #1 cylinder is at the top of the block or the compression cycle. This is crucial to have your #1 piston at TDC before you install a distributor, replace timing belts, etc.
Since your camshaft moves, then you still have your timing belt in tact.
I am not sure if the markings for TDC on the auto's are on the crankpulley or not. On most cars the pulley can have a "notch" in it. On the timing covers they can have a 0,5,10 marks on them to indicate where your timing is when you are adjusting the timing.
In the manual transmissions on the F22A1 Engines you can see the TDC mark on the flywheel. Next time I am at the junk yard I will take a look.
Fuel & spark are indeed 2 separate issues. When it doesn't start, you FIRST need to decide which one is missing. Before spending a bunch of money on distributor parts.
Distributor, coil, & spark are not powered through the main relay.
TDC = top-dead-center. The position of the crankshaft & camshaft when checking the alignment ("timing") of the camshaft.
Distributor, coil, & spark are not powered through the main relay.
TDC = top-dead-center. The position of the crankshaft & camshaft when checking the alignment ("timing") of the camshaft.
You can just spend $20.00 to $30.00 on a pre owned distributor at a self serve auto wrecker and get the whole thing. This is a much better alternative than testing, swaping out parts, purchasing new parts (which are actually used as they have been tested) and finding out that may or may not cure your issue.
See my post about the timing marks.
You will still have spark if you are not at TDC.
You can install a distributor 1 of two ways. The first way is have everything at TDC and making sure the rotor is positioned to the #1 spark plug wire.
Other way is you could go in blind, hook it up and you could be out 180 degrees on your timing.
The TDC approach is prefered and less frustrating.
See my post about the timing marks.
You will still have spark if you are not at TDC.
You can install a distributor 1 of two ways. The first way is have everything at TDC and making sure the rotor is positioned to the #1 spark plug wire.
Other way is you could go in blind, hook it up and you could be out 180 degrees on your timing.
The TDC approach is prefered and less frustrating.
You will still have spark if you are not at TDC.
You can install a distributor 1 of two ways. The first way is have everything at TDC and making sure the rotor is positioned to the #1 spark plug wire.
Other way is you could go in blind, hook it up and you could be out 180 degrees on your timing.
The TDC approach is prefered and less frustrating.


