Please help!!!!! F22 wont spark!!!
well one thing is the distributor would only go in one way....but it looked like (i forgot what the plastic thong with the metal on the end of it is called) it was NOT pointing to the number one wire....but if i tried to point it to the number one which is exactly oppisite it wont fit
The distributor has the slot they will fit into the cam. I have not tried to install it incorrectly. It looks like it can go in the right way and also if it were flipped 180 degrees.
Even if it were installed incorrectly you would have spark, just the timing would be way out.
Does your distributor wobble when you are trying to turn the car over?
The distributor shaft has a blade on the end that fits into a slot in the camshaft. That blade is a bit off-center, so theoretically it should only go in one way. But people have said that if you hammer it hard enough, you CAN get it in backwards.
Ahh...
Thanks for the info. I did not know that.
If you have to hammer in a distributor into the camshaft it means you are installing it wrong. ha ha ha.
EDIT: I meant that the camshaft has the slot, the distributor has the blade.
You don't want to install the distributor 180 off, because the spark would occur after the fuel/air mix was let out of the exhaust. You still would get spark though.
The blade does not go through the center of the shaft, to prevent someone from doing that. I have read where people installed it wrong, but had to use a lot of force to install the distributor.
The blade does not go through the center of the shaft, to prevent someone from doing that. I have read where people installed it wrong, but had to use a lot of force to install the distributor.
How are you testing for spark?
There is a slight difference between the 94 and 97 engine. One of the sensors in the distributor for the 94 was moved to the engine block on the 97. If I did the swap, I would have used the 94 ECU with the 94 distributor, but maybe you can find out from the person that did the swap.
As for the no spark, one test that you should try is turn the key to the II position. Test for 12V at the blk/yel wire that feeds the distributor. It will should be one of the wires in the two pin connector to the distributor. Just touch the one lead of the volt meter to the blk/yel pin and the other lead of the volt meter to a bolt on the valve cover.
I think that there is an engine ground on the firewall near the brake master cylinder on the firewall. You may want to unbolt, sand any corrosion, then tighten the bolt. You can download a 94 shop manual from the link I posted in the online manuals link in the DIY section. The ground locations are listed in the electrical section.
There is a slight difference between the 94 and 97 engine. One of the sensors in the distributor for the 94 was moved to the engine block on the 97. If I did the swap, I would have used the 94 ECU with the 94 distributor, but maybe you can find out from the person that did the swap.
As for the no spark, one test that you should try is turn the key to the II position. Test for 12V at the blk/yel wire that feeds the distributor. It will should be one of the wires in the two pin connector to the distributor. Just touch the one lead of the volt meter to the blk/yel pin and the other lead of the volt meter to a bolt on the valve cover.
I think that there is an engine ground on the firewall near the brake master cylinder on the firewall. You may want to unbolt, sand any corrosion, then tighten the bolt. You can download a 94 shop manual from the link I posted in the online manuals link in the DIY section. The ground locations are listed in the electrical section.
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