1996 Accord Coupe I just bought blows but only the outside temp. Questions follow and hopefully someone else will educate myself and others.

-Does the refrigerant go bad, slowly evaP over time or ultimately just escape due to a leak? I've always had Toyotas and to be honest never had to deal with it. I even own a 81 4x4 and it still blows cold with no AC work ever.

-Based off of question 1 should I look for a leaky hose or just recharge?

-Barring leaks how long will the recharge last?

-Are all 134 Recharge kits the same quality? If not any recommendations?

Thanks in advance, looking forward to learning about the Honda line as its my first but I gotta say I'm thoroughly impressed with the gas mpg, look and cockpit design compared to Toyota's comparable line.

 

I've owned both makes of this generation and found the AC equally reliable. Since you have no history you may want to buy or rent a set of gauges to check the pressures. A couple of links:

honda-tech(dot)com/showthread(dot)php?t=2900177

honda-tech(dot)com/showthread(dot)php?t=1665946

 

Refrigerant does not "spoil" w/ age, but does gradually leak through various points; compressor rotating seal, crimps of hoses, and gas permeation through hose body, and system defects. There is enough reserve refrigerant that loss is not detected until perhaps 20-30% is lost (a guess).

In a very tight system, the loss will be undetectable for a long time, perhaps 15+ yrs, but not many systems survive much beyond this age w/o some maintenance.

Likely sights for leaks in Accords are 1) compressor shaft seal, 2) evap orings and 3) hoses. You can look for leaks visually by searching for oil/dirt accumulation near leak. A dirty, oily ring around compressor clutch rotation plane is a dead giveaway to leaking rotating seal.

However, if you don't know how long since AC was functional, this evidence may be obscured by cleaning/weathering.

If you don't see visual evidence of leakage, you may want to pay a shop to perform a pressurized leak test to locate leaks. Then you can diy repair, and have shop recharge.

You can DIY by charging w/ a can of R134a and looking for leaks w/ a soapy solution to detect bubbles (won't work for compressor shaft seal and won't detect evaporator leaks).

Suggest first checking to see if any charge is left by depressing Schrader valve on low pressure fitting. If it blows out a little presssure, then postive charge remains (good). You then might try to charge w/ recharge kit, but also install a bit of lube w/ charge (separate item but installed same as refrigerant).

Have you ever done any auto AC work? If not, then some reading and studying is suggested. Check Haynes Auto AC manual. It's old but covers the basics.

good luck

 

I would suggest you verify that the AC compressor is not working before deciding to add Freon.

 

Roader

Will get to having the compression checked, thank you.

TexasHonda
Man you just spewed some knowledge on me. Want to know how I know what your talking about? Because I have no idea, thats why.

kris_loehr
I didn't even think to check to see if the pulley engages when I turn the ac on.

 

Last line of my post provides key; some reading. I started ignorant also and learned by reading/doing.

good luck

 

Added Freon but barely had enough in the can to get the pressure to the green mark. It blows cold now but not real cold like it should. I decided I'd give it a couple of months of use and test it with the gauge again. That way I'd know if I had a bad leak somewhere. If not I'll fill it completely to icey cold goodness.

Note to DIY'ers spend the extra and get the biggest can available of Freon as well as the one with the removable nozzle and longer hose. When turning the can back and forth the short corded cans will twist off the hose from the can. And you'll def use that gauge again in your lifetime and just need to buy the cheaper can of freon. I bought the 18oz can and can assure you my system needed the bigger 22oz can maybe even more.