Problems with my coolant reservoir
#11
06-26-2012, 07:48 PM
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina
Posts: 14
Poorman, thanks for the quick response.
Seems that the problem was the missing hose inside the reservoir tank. Since the plastic 'L' tube that goes from one side to the other of the reservoir cap was broken (the side that goes inside the tank was shorten), I bought a silicon tube in a pharma (the one used by doctors to apply injections) and attached it to the 'L' tube. It's not pretty, I know, but where I live, there aren't much accord parts (specially for the old ones).
I poured some more distilled water, but most of it got spilled because the cap was not well closed and it fell inside the car =( I'll buy premixed coolant tomorrow and see how it goes.
I've been riding today and the fans start well, both of them. But the temp gauge rise a little over the half, before fans start to act. Probably because I have distilled water instead of coolant. And because radiator may not be filled completelly.
By the way, how should I bleed the coolant system? I've seent that any of the radiator hoses have an accessible bleeding valve.
cheers! and thanks you all for your responses!!!
Seems that the problem was the missing hose inside the reservoir tank. Since the plastic 'L' tube that goes from one side to the other of the reservoir cap was broken (the side that goes inside the tank was shorten), I bought a silicon tube in a pharma (the one used by doctors to apply injections) and attached it to the 'L' tube. It's not pretty, I know, but where I live, there aren't much accord parts (specially for the old ones).
I poured some more distilled water, but most of it got spilled because the cap was not well closed and it fell inside the car =( I'll buy premixed coolant tomorrow and see how it goes.
I've been riding today and the fans start well, both of them. But the temp gauge rise a little over the half, before fans start to act. Probably because I have distilled water instead of coolant. And because radiator may not be filled completelly.
By the way, how should I bleed the coolant system? I've seent that any of the radiator hoses have an accessible bleeding valve.
cheers! and thanks you all for your responses!!!
#12
06-26-2012, 08:28 PM
Use at your own risk.
Where the lower radiator hose connects to the engine there should be a "bleeder valve"....just like what you see on the brake system.
Once you verify things are good. You should really drain the system - get the "water" out. Assuming you have a fair amount of "straight water" in there.
Open the drain in the lower part of the rad. Remove the rad cap - might think about a new one "just to be sure" - and open the bleeder on the t-stat housing where the lower hose connects to the engine. Also turn the heat **** to "max heat".
Once done with the drain. Close the drain on the rad. Slowly fill the rad with 50/50 mix until a good stream of coolant is coming out of the bleeder. Close the bleeder, top off the plastic res. Put the cap back on, only to the first "click"....not all the way tight.
Start the car and let it run for ~15 minutes - keep an eye on the gauge - or until the cooling fans come on. Once they do, shut if off.
From there, BE CAREFUL - you only went one "click" on the rad cap so there should be almost no pressure in the system but you DO NOT want to get burned. Remove the cap, top off rad and res. Install cap all the way and call it done.
Where the lower radiator hose connects to the engine there should be a "bleeder valve"....just like what you see on the brake system.
Once you verify things are good. You should really drain the system - get the "water" out. Assuming you have a fair amount of "straight water" in there.
Open the drain in the lower part of the rad. Remove the rad cap - might think about a new one "just to be sure" - and open the bleeder on the t-stat housing where the lower hose connects to the engine. Also turn the heat **** to "max heat".
Once done with the drain. Close the drain on the rad. Slowly fill the rad with 50/50 mix until a good stream of coolant is coming out of the bleeder. Close the bleeder, top off the plastic res. Put the cap back on, only to the first "click"....not all the way tight.
Start the car and let it run for ~15 minutes - keep an eye on the gauge - or until the cooling fans come on. Once they do, shut if off.
From there, BE CAREFUL - you only went one "click" on the rad cap so there should be almost no pressure in the system but you DO NOT want to get burned. Remove the cap, top off rad and res. Install cap all the way and call it done.
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