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Question about CV joints

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  #1  
Old 04-16-2012, 06:57 AM
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Default Question about CV joints

While doing the upper ball joint on my 97 wagon, I see where the right outer CV joint boot is cracking and starting to sling grease. It is not making any noise yet, so I want to re-boot it.

I understand there is a circlip on the inner shaft at the transmission. How do you get the shaft out with that clip on the shaft? Same with the reverse when I re-install it.

Also, can someone tell me how that outer joint comes apart so I can re-grease and replace the boot?

Thanks
 
  #2  
Old 04-16-2012, 07:07 AM
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Honda Axles are removed and installed by brute force. Use a big screw driver or pry bar to pry the axle out of the differential. And then reinstall by pushing it back in. There are no special tools needed.
 
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Old 04-16-2012, 07:42 AM
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live2rice - I believe the OP means how does he pull the joint apart so he can install a new factory style boot.

I have rebuilt cv joints on 4x4's and it is a super pain in the butt.

OP new axles are $55 for the car, much easier to just replace the whole axle.
 
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Old 04-17-2012, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by live2rice
Honda Axles are removed and installed by brute force. Use a big screw driver or pry bar to pry the axle out of the differential. And then reinstall by pushing it back in. There are no special tools needed.
Brute force? Does this mean you have to break the snap ring on the end when it is coming out? What about putting it it?


live2rice - I believe the OP means how does he pull the joint apart so he can install a new factory style boot.

I have rebuilt cv joints on 4x4's and it is a super pain in the butt.

OP new axles are $55 for the car, much easier to just replace the whole axle.
I have had poor experiences with cheap aftermarket axles on Subarus, and would rather avoid the. How much quality could go into a 50 dollar CV axle anyway?
 
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Old 04-17-2012, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by wunderbra
Brute force? Does this mean you have to break the snap ring on the end when it is coming out? What about putting it it?


No - he was referring to pulling the axle as a unit from the transmission.

I have had poor experiences with cheap aftermarket axles on Subarus, and would rather avoid the. How much quality could go into a 50 dollar CV axle anyway?

Well being the Honda is 100X more common than the Subaru the axle for $50 is fine. Just replace the whole unit.

If you want to replace the boot it is just like any other cv joint, clean the grease out and use snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring and then the joint will come off the axle.

Again, just to be clear, replacing the whole axle is a better move than just replacing the boot - IMO
 
  #6  
Old 04-17-2012, 09:14 PM
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You have to disassemble inner joint to reach outer joint (?). It's a messy PIA job, but may be worth it to retain your origiinal CV jts. Get OEM boots and bands. Get a download manual from Online Manuals post in DIY forum. The 94-97 Accord manual should work fine for your wagon.

I would not recommend any CV axles from Autozone or O'Riellys. This $50-$70 axles are not worth the time it takes to install them.

I went through 2 right and 2 left axles w/ a constant severe vibration problem. I finally fixed the problem by installing new CV axles from Raxles. They cost over twice as much about $130 each, but are worth the extra. I now have my original Accord smooth acceleration back.

good luck
 
  #7  
Old 04-18-2012, 08:29 AM
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The factory manual does not detail how to disassemble the outer joint. Is it just so self evident or what? I did it on the Subaru when cleaned and re-booted the inner joint. It was messy but not difficult.

A boot kits costs about 9 bucks. Can't see throwing away a good smooth axle just for a split joint.
 
  #8  
Old 04-18-2012, 08:47 AM
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Done this on VW & Saab axles, never on Honda. I know what you mean about the Helm book not saying how to dismantle it. It's possible that all you can do is take apart the inboard joint & remove the outboard boot that way. Clean up the outboard joint real good, rinse with solvent a few times, dry it out. Then slip the new boot over the axle that way.

On VW/Saab you flex the joint over & hammer on the large "bell" of the outer stub. It "snaps" off from the end of the axle, sorta like the inboard stub snaps out from the transmission. Once the axle is out, you can flex the joint even further to get the ***** & races apart.
 
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