So my 94 Accord failed inspection due to a torn rack and pinion boot on the drivers side. The cheapest garage (Meineke of all places) said they'd replace it for $165, which includes the parts, labor, and two wheel alignment.

Is it easy enough to replace it myself? I know that the part is relatively cheap. Also, is an alignment necessary when the boot is replaced?

 

You have to remove the outer balljoint end of the tie rod. If you can successfully mark it, and replace it to the exact same position, then OK.

However... You need to ask yourself how long has the boot been torn? Much dirt in there to clean out? Has the dirt done any damage to the rack, or at least to the balljoint that's inside the boot?

And it might be that the car is due for alignment anyway. How long has it been?

 

As JimBlake has said, it it not that bad of a job. You have to remove the tie rod end that has the outer balljoint on it (balljoint goes into the back of the steering knuckle assembly)

Personally I woudlnt do this job without an alignment afterwards, yes you can mark it before taking it apart but im more **** about this stuff, I guess.

This is strange timing because I just found, last night, the exact parts that will fit your car (needs fully confirming) that I bought, form Honda, boots and securing clips for both sides on our 94 Accord EX 5spd but ended up swapping the whole rack.

Like I said, I will confirm that they will fit your car, and if you wish, could ship one to you. Then you could do it yourself or take an OEM parts with you to a garage?

im not sure how much variance (prob none) there is but lets confirm so that I can look it up:
your car is a 1994..
engine?
trans?
body style?

 

I went to Pep Boys today to get a bellows kit. Going to be replacing in a little bit, so I will report back once the job is done. Thanks for your help!!!!

It's a 94 Accord LX with a manual trans and a 2.2 L4 engine.

 

A significant complication to this job can be installing and accessing the tensioned metal clamp at boot ends. It is much easier if you use appropriate size plastic wire ties. They are not as durable, but much easier to install. Mine have held up well.

good luck

 

An hour and a half later, I was able to get it on! The most time consuming part of the job was actually getting the boot to fit over the lip in the back, because it's such a tiny space. With it being greasy, it made that much more difficult.

Took it for a test drive, and all is well now!

 

Thanks for letting us know. How was the cleanliness inside the boot?

 

The old boot looked pretty bad. It was torn in the front and back... There were some brown jelly like clumps and oil inside as well.

 

If dirt got into the inboard balljoint, it may over time grind that & make it loose.

Also if dirt got into the rack seals, they might begin leaking more over time & fill that boot with PS fluid.

If steering works OK now, then I'd just suggest getting emotionally/financially prepared to replace the steering rack in a year or 2. Keep an eye on PS fluid inventory because it can leak into those boots for quite awhile before it leaks OUT.

 

Thanks so much for the information, Jim. It is very much appreciated!