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Removing stuck ball joints

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Old Nov 30, 2017 | 05:00 PM
  #1  
fast eddie's Avatar
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Angry Removing stuck ball joints

I hate to start another thread(over 1400 pages!), but my search didn't give any results using the title I'm using here, so here goes...any advice on removing extremely stubborn lower ball joints? They are taper fit, and with a good solid puller on them, and a heavy brass hammer, they aren't popping loose. I first tried a pry bar and tapping, which I've used in the past, NoGo. I then tried a little heat(don't have a torch, just a heat gun...lame, I know) along with the pry bar, NoGo. Then out came 2 jaw snap-on puller, solidly positioned with heavy pressure, NoGo. I added pry bar, NoGo. I tried heat gun(yeah, prolly need an oxy/acetylene rig), NoGo!!! Damn, these are tough, and it's on both sides! I'm pulling my auto trans and need to pop these off to get axles out. Suggestions/discussion welcome. I'm thinking I should break down and get an oxy/acetylene rig, since I've always wanted one anyway, but will that do the trick??? And yes, I've loosened the castle nuts...
 
Old Nov 30, 2017 | 08:30 PM
  #2  
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What year/engine/etc. Accord do you drive?

Where are you hitting with the brass hammer? On the castle nut?
 
Old Dec 1, 2017 | 12:00 AM
  #3  
fast eddie's Avatar
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2002 std ex non-vtec 4 banger...yeah hitting the loosened castle nut/threads on ball joint(when prying with bar) or on end of puller when using puller. Std way you'd pull something off a taper...
 
Old Dec 1, 2017 | 06:23 AM
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Some people smack the side of the lower control arm, alongside where the taper stud is stuck. For that, use a large ball-peen hammer, you want a sharper hit than you get with brass.

Even better if you back up the opposite side of the LCA with something big & heavy, so the LCA doesn't simply bounce out of the way when you hit it.
 
Old Dec 1, 2017 | 11:10 AM
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Had a similar issue on a 2000 LandCruiser. I found a very big strong friend and had him beat them out with a sledge hammer.
 
Old Dec 2, 2017 | 01:20 AM
  #6  
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I tried some side hits, NoGo. This was with the puller still torqued down so I couldn't get the direct hit you'd want. I bet that tip about backing it up with something heavy like a sledge hammer head or even larger would help. I also saw a tip about 2 simultaneous hits with 2 hammers which I bet might be effective. I've used the simultaneous hit technique to remove broken bolts before, you need an assistant for that, but it works. I got the job done after leaving my pullers on overnite,retorquing them and then leaning on a 3 ft crowbar and they popped off...thanks for the tips!
 
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