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Following that, did the rotor come off easily after you removed the screw?
I'm seeing various discussions recommending an impact driver, or a 12-point socket (do they even make one small enough for a #2 Phillips screw?), or cutting a flathead slot with a dremel (although I doubt a dremel will fit here).
I've tried tapping a screwdriver with a hammer while attempting to turn the screw after spraying WD-40, with no luck.
Thanks.
Yup, that's what I used, but an older model without the orange plastic on it. I mainly used it to crack the screw loose, as it just didn't want to turn. Once I cracked it loose with the impact driver, I switched to a #2 Phillips and removed the screw. The rotor came off without issue after that. On my son's Civic, he had already messed up the head of the screw, so we cut up the rotor to gain access to it (it wasn't going to be reused anyway), cut a slot into the head, and used the impact driver to get the screw out. On his we replaced the screw with a hex head screw to make it easier the next time. The hex head screw was sourced at our local ACE hardware store since it's metric.
I successfully removed the rotor screw using a manual impact screwdriver and a bit of Permatex valve griding paste on the screw head.
Unfortunately, the BWD replacement rotor appears to be about a quarter-inch too shallow to fit on the shaft -- either that, or it's too tight. As far as I can tell, it's the correct part -- it just doesn't fit. (Here's the replacement part. Same product ID as the one they shipped, although it looks different in the online catalog: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...712p/3036014-P)
I'll attach an image of the two rotors. The replacement part is on the right, with what appears to be a brass fitting.
Seanjordan, the distributor cap said "TEC", so I would guess this is a TEC distributor.
I don't know any other way to tell the difference, although I understand the Hitachi is much less common.
Going off your photos above, you have a non-VTEC engine, and that's what you have to buy parts for (called out that way). I ran into this problem when I had my own 97, and it made ordering parts a PIA. This is especially true of ordering thru Rock Auto, although they do try to separate them in their call outs, this isn't always the case. It got to the point where I would go thru the multiple listings, to see the difference in the parts, and go with which one would work. Mine had a separate coil (or divorced coil), which is how you are supposed to tell VTEC (coil in cap) from non-VTEC engines (divorced coil).
It made me glad when I'd order parts for my wife's 00 Accord, as the parts for the non-VTEC engine were called out. My 99 Accord is the same way. This is because most of the cars in the 6th generation were VTEC cars, versus the 94-97 cars which were evenly split among both versions.
I believe the Hitachi distributor set up is for the VTEC cars (coil under cap).
Yes, but does the TEC vs. Hitachi distributor issue relate in any way to the VTEC vs. non-VTEC engine discussion?
I just hope the Honda OEM rotor I ordered fits, because otherwise, I have no idea what to do. Suppliers do not differentiate rotors as "TEC" or "non-VTEC". They stock rotors listed for your particular vehicle, and no other choices are available. It's absurd to think you can order auto parts any other way.
Last edited by slobjones; Feb 4, 2020 at 09:59 PM.
