Replacing Tie Rod Dust Seal Boots
#11
10-24-2011, 02:45 PM
Replacing bellows 11 & 12
In order to do this what has to be dissassembled (can you provide the diagram numbers please)?
I am in Mooresville, NC ....30 miles North of Charlotte....Lake Norman area.
I can easily order the parts online but am wondering how difficult the job is?
Thank you,
Michael
I am in Mooresville, NC ....30 miles North of Charlotte....Lake Norman area.
I can easily order the parts online but am wondering how difficult the job is?
Thank you,
Michael
#12
10-24-2011, 08:12 PM
A manual will help, see the Common DIY Threads for a link where you can download one. I can hit the highlights. THIS IS NOT a complete how to.
1) Raise the car and support properly.
2) Remove tire(s)
3) turn the wheel so the side you are working on is easy to get to..ie, when working on the left/driver side, turn the wheels to the right.
4) Loosen the lock/jam nut (#25). Two wrenches needed
5) Cotter pin (#26) and then castle nut (#22)
6) Separate the tie rod from the knuckle
7) remove outer tie rod. COUNT the turns very carefully. Then the lock/jam nut
8)Cut the band (#8), remove the “key ring” outer clamp (#3), remove the vent hose (#2) from the boot.
Reverse the order, get the tie rod back on AS CLOSE as possible-number of turns….I have lifetime alignment with my tires and local shop. Get the alignment checked as soon as possible, it will be off by “some” amount.
1) Raise the car and support properly.
2) Remove tire(s)
3) turn the wheel so the side you are working on is easy to get to..ie, when working on the left/driver side, turn the wheels to the right.
4) Loosen the lock/jam nut (#25). Two wrenches needed
5) Cotter pin (#26) and then castle nut (#22)
6) Separate the tie rod from the knuckle
7) remove outer tie rod. COUNT the turns very carefully. Then the lock/jam nut
8)Cut the band (#8), remove the “key ring” outer clamp (#3), remove the vent hose (#2) from the boot.
Reverse the order, get the tie rod back on AS CLOSE as possible-number of turns….I have lifetime alignment with my tires and local shop. Get the alignment checked as soon as possible, it will be off by “some” amount.
#13
10-24-2011, 08:14 PM
Easy job.
Only challenge is you'll need to break the tie-rod ball joint w/ either a ball joint lifter tool (online < $20) or use the Big Hammer routine. See youtube video by ericthecarguy on brake rotor replacment. You simple hit the knuckle joint by the ball joint (hard w/ 3 lb or more hammer) and it pop loose.
Suggest downloading the 94-97 Accord shop manual from Online Manuals post in DIY forum.
good luck
Only challenge is you'll need to break the tie-rod ball joint w/ either a ball joint lifter tool (online < $20) or use the Big Hammer routine. See youtube video by ericthecarguy on brake rotor replacment. You simple hit the knuckle joint by the ball joint (hard w/ 3 lb or more hammer) and it pop loose.
Suggest downloading the 94-97 Accord shop manual from Online Manuals post in DIY forum.
good luck
#14
10-27-2011, 10:01 AM
Dust boot (bellows) replacement
To all who replied....
Thank you for all the info and help!
I have the original shop manuals to my car (electrical and mechanical) from Honda.
Will look it over and decide if I want to do it or let a shop with more experience take it on. It's too bad because I got my first ever wheel alignement around 1 year ago and now it will have to be done again.
Michael
Thank you for all the info and help!
I have the original shop manuals to my car (electrical and mechanical) from Honda.
Will look it over and decide if I want to do it or let a shop with more experience take it on. It's too bad because I got my first ever wheel alignement around 1 year ago and now it will have to be done again.
Michael
#15
10-27-2011, 06:37 PM
You should be able to do this job and you'll be pleased once complete.
I did not realign afterwards, but I marked TDC on the tie-rod end before breaking the locknut and carefully counted how many rotations to remove. I also marked where lock nut was on the inner tie-rod end to return to exactly same position.
good luck
I did not realign afterwards, but I marked TDC on the tie-rod end before breaking the locknut and carefully counted how many rotations to remove. I also marked where lock nut was on the inner tie-rod end to return to exactly same position.
good luck
#16
04-07-2013, 09:53 AM
If it is the bellows, on the inner tie rod/steering rack, there is a stretchable one that is made in Australia, that does not require you to separate the tie rod end from the knuckle and remove the outer rod end.
I am going to be experimenting with making my own device to do this and will report back if the results are positive.
If you are referring to the little dust boot ( cup shaped) on the outer tie rod end, you will need to replace the end, which requires removal as TexasHonda described.
The outer boot is number 16, the inner bellows is number 11
I am going to be experimenting with making my own device to do this and will report back if the results are positive.
If you are referring to the little dust boot ( cup shaped) on the outer tie rod end, you will need to replace the end, which requires removal as TexasHonda described.
The outer boot is number 16, the inner bellows is number 11
Planning to do both right and left bellow, as they are ripped off
#17
04-07-2013, 10:02 AM
Nice to see you over here.....seen your other posts on HT about this issue.
Sorry but there is not a way of replacing the bellows/boot on the rack (11 & 12) without removing the outer tie rod(s). The small end of the bellows/boot will not fit over the end of the outer tie rod.
Sorry but there is not a way of replacing the bellows/boot on the rack (11 & 12) without removing the outer tie rod(s). The small end of the bellows/boot will not fit over the end of the outer tie rod.
#18
04-08-2013, 09:08 AM
Nice to see you over here.....seen your other posts on HT about this issue.
Sorry but there is not a way of replacing the bellows/boot on the rack (11 & 12) without removing the outer tie rod(s). The small end of the bellows/boot will not fit over the end of the outer tie rod.
Sorry but there is not a way of replacing the bellows/boot on the rack (11 & 12) without removing the outer tie rod(s). The small end of the bellows/boot will not fit over the end of the outer tie rod.
I think, have no choice to get a new alignment, bellows and the tie-rods
Sad part is, I replaced both outer/inner tie rods, got the alignment and new tires, less than 1 year ago
#19
04-19-2013, 08:39 AM
Two last questions before I tackle this challenge:
1-Do I need any special tool to tighten up the inner tie rod? Or the tool is only used to open it? Because I went to Autozone/Advance today, all the inner tie rods tools were loose on my inner tie-rod, since tie rod is not rectangular or a square, its more of a cylindrical or circular, if you know what I am saying???
2-On Rockauto they have different sizes for the right and left bellow, I have bought the passenger side from Advance, should I go ahead and buy the same for driver side too? Also, from posted picture in the beginning of the thread, seems like #11 and #12 has different size/lengths?
Thanks again for all the help and cooperation
1-Do I need any special tool to tighten up the inner tie rod? Or the tool is only used to open it? Because I went to Autozone/Advance today, all the inner tie rods tools were loose on my inner tie-rod, since tie rod is not rectangular or a square, its more of a cylindrical or circular, if you know what I am saying???
2-On Rockauto they have different sizes for the right and left bellow, I have bought the passenger side from Advance, should I go ahead and buy the same for driver side too? Also, from posted picture in the beginning of the thread, seems like #11 and #12 has different size/lengths?
Thanks again for all the help and cooperation
#20
04-19-2013, 06:19 PM
No special tools needed. See pic, there is a "lock washer", once bent out of the way an open end wrench or maybe an adjustable wrench is all you need. There should be a "flat" part just where the threads on the inner part of the tie rod screws into the rack.
A stock 94 Accord. The bellows/boots on the rack are different - I know what "holms" said but that is wrong. Be careful of the "vent" tube on the bellows/boots. Not so much size or length....more of where the vent tubes connect.....and that/those tubes are important.
A stock 94 Accord. The bellows/boots on the rack are different - I know what "holms" said but that is wrong. Be careful of the "vent" tube on the bellows/boots. Not so much size or length....more of where the vent tubes connect.....and that/those tubes are important.