Right Rear toe-in is out-of-spec. This might cause tire wear and vehicle alignment issues. This might indicate worn bushings in trailing arm allowing movement.

How does car drive? Pulls or tracks straight?

good luck

 

Steering wheel "Honda" symbol is very slightly on the right. At high speeds, around 60-70 MPH, steering shakes a bit and sometimes when i apply the brakes, feel a pull towards right.

Thanks again for the help and advice.

 

So here is a question, I need to replace the tie-rod ends on my wifes 95 wagon and replace the bellows as well. I know how to do that now since reading this but I'm not sure how long the bellow has been torn and open to dust. Should I clean the ball joint with anything before putting on the new bellow?

 

I would use WD40 to wash any dust off. It will need regreasing afterwards.

There's an inner ball joint that needs lube of some type. I've never heard what to use, but most ball joint grease is EP moly grease (wheel bearing grease). At least that's what I've used.

Get a shop manual (Online Manuals thread in DIY forum) to know where to place grease.

good luck

 

Thanks TexasHonda. I actually just got done doing some digging and got a service manual that says to use silicone grease on the surface of the rack end after using a solvent to clean it. Would break cleaner work better since its a solvent and not a lubricant? or WD40?
It also says to wipe any grease from the threats where the locknut goes. Just a little FYI for anyone else working on it.

 

I did my both inner and out tie-rods nearly 5-6 months ago.

NOT sure how and why , inner tie rod has come loose from steering rack and pinion, from the joint mentioned in the attached pict.

What's the easiest way to put back inner tie rod into the steering rack? Since outer tie rod is still intact, anyway I can avoid alignment expense since I had alignment done 5-6 months ago. Also, if stopper washer is missing, where can I buy stopper washer?

 

Two ways for the inner tie rod to separate; tie rod not inserted into slot and/or lock washer improperly set. I guess structural failure of tie-rod is another possibility.

The ball jt would allow inner tie-rod end to be rejoined to steering rack w/o changing the outer tie-rod position. However the dust boots may be in the way and may require removal for access.

good luck

 

Thanks so much 'TexasHonda'.

Please see attached few pictures.

What's the best way of tightening the inner tie rod into steering rack? Without opening outer tie rod, so that I can save on alignment.

Also, I am bit confused about the direction of 'Stopper Washer' it can go either direction or there is any specific direction?

What's the best way to bend the crush/lock washer, why it has come loose at the first place?

Please see attached few picts and waiting for your response and reply.

 

A special tool is used to reach the nut. It should be available for rental from Autozone, or other parts houses.

The lock washer bends back over the nut to prevent nut from rotating after tightening.

I found details under Power Steering in download shop manual.

good luck

 

More damage has been done by overgreasing tie rod ends than undergreasing because overgreasing eventually damages the dust seals.