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Rough idle, Stalls, White smoke (Need Help)

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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 11:57 PM
  #1  
bradleyt86@live.com's Avatar
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Default Rough idle, Stalls, White smoke (Need Help)

Hello All. Frist time poster, long time viewer in need of help!
My 91 Accord LX SOCH - Auto Trans was driving down the highway. It already had a hole in the braided sleeve that covers up a corrugated flex joint. I think it's upstream of the catalytic converter. (Metal mesh exhaust piece). The car also has an issue with the shift solenoid too which was causing me to drive the car in the sports shift mode in order to maintain the proper speed/gear on the highway. That day I disconnected the negative battery cable to reset the sensor, which allowed the car to drive properly out of the sport shift mode. 20 minutes into driving (100 degree weather), the car made a horrible sound on the highway like metal rubbing in the engine bay, and my green speed shift senor light came on, then my car suddenly started to shake and lose acceleration power. I was forced to pull over to the side of the road, and the car started to pour white smoke out of the hole in the braided sleeve. The car shook/idled roughly and would die whenever I tried to press the gas hard trying to pull further off to the side of the highway.
When I popped the hood it was noticed that a nickel sized hose in the center rear of the engine bay (near the throttle position sensor area) was melted almost all the way shut. I removed the hose from its port and the rough/low idle stopped and the car began to idle slightly better, but still would jump around between less than 1000 – 3000 RPMs. This did cause the idle to improve and the RPM’s to increase slightly. With this hose removed the car wouldn’t stall as easy when I tried pressing the gas, but this time pressing the gas caused a larger amount white smoke, coming from the braided sleeve area again and the engine badly shaking struggling to run.
I’ve checked my oil, transmission fluid, and gas & radiator fluid without any issues. I just filled up my gas tank before the drive.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
 
Old Aug 2, 2011 | 05:46 AM
  #2  
TexasHonda's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Katy, TX
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The hose in the center of the engine was likely the PCV hose and you need to install a new hose and new PCV valve.

good luck
 
Old Aug 3, 2011 | 12:29 PM
  #3  
bradleyt86@live.com's Avatar
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Joined: Aug 2011
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Default Still shaking and rough idle with no movement. Press gas an it stalls out.

Thanks for the information. It was the PCV valve and hose. I replace both, still the same issues as mentioned above. Any other information would be greatly appreciated.
 
Old Aug 3, 2011 | 12:52 PM
  #4  
PAhonda's Avatar
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From: Houston, TX
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Check for engine and transmission codes. Open the Common DIY Thread on top of the gen tech help forum for a link on how to do this.
 
Old Aug 3, 2011 | 01:38 PM
  #5  
bradleyt86@live.com's Avatar
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I see this link https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...l-codes-35962/. It mentions using a wire to bridge a connection with a 2-pin connector on the passanger side of the accord but I would need more details that this. Are you aware of any more detailed info on the location of the 2-pin connector I should bridge?

Thanks
 
Old Aug 3, 2011 | 01:45 PM
  #6  
PAhonda's Avatar
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There are a couple of links in that post.

The techauto shows the location on the 90-93 accords. The dhost is for 94-97 accords.

Search b6rEk9aXOmg on YouTube. That is a video on how to do this.
 
Old Aug 3, 2011 | 02:09 PM
  #7  
bradleyt86@live.com's Avatar
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Thank you sir
 
Old Aug 4, 2011 | 04:22 PM
  #8  
bradleyt86@live.com's Avatar
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 5
Default This i found the fix

Turns out it was a bad timing belt. The belt is cracked to hell and it way off, must of jumped while I was on the highway. Looks like a bad seal allowed oil to get into the timing belt area, making the belt soft. It streched and jumped, surprised it didnt snap altogether. Getting the part from the shop new for 19.99. That should have it running, waiting on the special tool I need now. Thanks again for the help. Also replacing the seal which lead to this whole cluster fu*k
 
Old Aug 5, 2011 | 06:30 PM
  #9  
poorman212's Avatar
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From: Kenton, TN
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Personally, I'd double check compression to be sure you didn't bend a valve.

If that is good, you'd want to replace more than just the t-belt and seal. All the seals, wp and the balance shaft belt....check the idler/tensioners ect.....
 

Last edited by poorman212; Aug 6, 2011 at 09:51 AM.
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