Yeah I've been reading a bunch of threads. I'm gonne jump the sc soon and see if I can get the code. Seems like nobody could ever read the code right though.
I can hear the pump come on, then it clicks and the ABS light comes on and stays on till the engine is cut off. I can't remember if it happens before the car starts moving. I do not think it does though so it might be one of the sensors in the rear wheels. I swear I think the ABS is still working though because I have has to slam on the brakes myself (almost rear endeda camperonce)and they didn't lock up.

 

So I had the CEL code read at AutoZone the other day and the Ignition Coil fault code is now gone. But the frickin O2 sensor code is still there. I guess I've got some diagnosing to do on it. Problem is, I think it's gonna be a pain in the @$$ to get to for diagnosis.
The car's running great though and not using any more gas than usual so I may just leave it alone for a while. Till it gets cool outside againanyway. Thanks again to everyone who helped along the way!

 

Don't keep us in suspense! What was that code?

Regards

 

Oh..sorry. The P0725 code that was formerly there is now gone after I replaced the ignition coil. Now the P0141 (O2 sensor) is still there. It was there from the beginning.

 

P0141 is a simple fix usually. This means the heater circuit is showing a short or open to ECU. Usually the heater element in the O2 sensor has opened. You can disconnect the O2 sensor from harness and check the two same color wires for resistance w/ your new VOM. If it shows infinite, or more unlikely zero sensor is bad. Correct resistance is probably 2-3 ohms. If the O2 sensor should check OK (unlikely but possible), look for a connector or wiring fault.

good luck

 

OK. Thanks Texas!! Now all I gotta do is jack it up & put on jackstands & try to locate the sucker[&:]

 

I believe 10 to 40 ohms is where it should be.

 

OK WELL IF IT DOESNT AFFTECT HOW THE CAR DRIVES CHICKS RARELY LOOK AT DASH UNLESS U ARE SPEEDING....BUT IF IS A GUAGE PROBLEM JUST IGNORTE MY 98 CLUSTER IS 450 DOLLARS SO SAVE MONEY

 

All of this was posted a couple months ago, and i am having the exact same problem... Are you still not having any RPM problems at all? Just curious to see if the replacing the coil took care of the problem for good... Thanks... also did you go in for that Recall or whatever it was?

 

Ztadams, tell us what kind of Honda you have?

Most of this thread is about his '95 V-6. That car is different from most other Hondas, where the tachometer signal comes from the coil. More common for Hondas, the tachometer signal comes either from the ignitor or from the ECU.