General Tech Help Good at troubleshooting? Have a non specific issue? Discuss general tech topics here.

shift selector problem

Old Sep 2, 2013 | 02:52 PM
  #11  
sgull's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 333
From: SE Alaska
Default

Originally Posted by poorman212
So you did check the "adjustment"?
Okay, on second check in regard to the adjustment, here's what manual says:



Now here's a photo of the actual business I'm looking at. In instruction #5 it says to check whether the hole in the adjuster is perfectly aligned with the hole in the shift cable. Well when I look through the hole in the adjuster I don't see any hole in the shift cable. So maybe I do need to adjust the cable. My problem is I can't figure out how to remove that "lock pin" from the from the cable adjuster, as mentioned in instruction #4. I tried squeezing the tab and pulling up, but no go; I don't know what is the little trick.

 
Attached Thumbnails shift selector problem-img_2446_zps31602f28.jpg   shift selector problem-img_2443_zps9cbf12d5.jpg  
Old Sep 3, 2013 | 05:10 PM
  #12  
poorman212's Avatar
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 11,834
From: Kenton, TN
Default

Isn't that just the "collar" holding the two together?
 
Old Sep 3, 2013 | 05:16 PM
  #13  
poorman212's Avatar
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 11,834
From: Kenton, TN
Default

And to add, with the car back up and running....on flat level ground, does the car try to "move" like it did when you had the wheels off the ground.

Or better yet, with them in the air and the cables apart. Does a slight "tug/push" on the cable make the wheels stop......I am kind of joining this late and not real sure of the issue.....jumped in with help on the cable at the trans. I guess I should read the whole thread.
 
Old Sep 3, 2013 | 05:17 PM
  #14  
sgull's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 333
From: SE Alaska
Default

Yeah more or less a collar you could call it. In the lower part of that drawing where there's an arrow pointing to it but no label. I think whats called the lock pin is the pin that goes through it as you can see the top of the pin in the photo but not really shown in the drawing... I can't figure out how you're supposed to remove that lock pin.
 
Old Sep 3, 2013 | 05:24 PM
  #15  
sgull's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 333
From: SE Alaska
Default

with the car back up and running....on flat level ground, does the car try to "move" like it did when you had the wheels off the ground.
No, not that I noticed.

with them in the air and the cables apart. Does a slight "tug/push" on the cable make the wheels stop
Well I don't have any cables apart. There is one cable, the shift selector cable, that I want to get loose (or maybe try to adjust) but just can't figure out how to remove that lock pin on the "collar"
 
Old Sep 3, 2013 | 05:30 PM
  #16  
poorman212's Avatar
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 11,834
From: Kenton, TN
Default

One day I'll make a copy of the manual I have and send it to you.....hint PM me an address and give me a few days/week. Or if I can remember where I got it, I could send a link.....it is not the best, it is for the 90 UK version Accord.

See if this clears it up?
 
Attached Thumbnails shift selector problem-4th-gen-shift-cable-adjust.jpg  
Old Sep 3, 2013 | 05:37 PM
  #17  
sgull's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 333
From: SE Alaska
Default

Originally Posted by poorman212
See if this clears it up?
Yeah that's a better drawing and stuff than I have in my manual. Tells me that the collar and pin are apparently all one thing. I guess I'd just need to pull up really hard on the clip-like collar, and I have tried that a little already but its like so tight on there I'm afraid it'll bust or something if I pull on it too hard. At least with your drawing there I have a better view of the thing. thanks
 
Old Sep 12, 2013 | 10:33 PM
  #18  
sgull's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 333
From: SE Alaska
Default

Update: Got the clip ("lock pin") off. Installed a new shift cable (69 bucks). Works smooth as silk now. No more binding/strugging to get shifter moved back and forth between park and reverse. I found the instructions in the first link I included in post #5 this thread to be the most helpful/accurate to follow to get the job accomplished.
 

Last edited by sgull; Sep 12, 2013 at 10:37 PM.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
warpedlogic
General Tech Help
0
Jul 4, 2010 10:24 AM
davecof
General Tech Help
5
Mar 15, 2010 07:00 PM
watut
General Tech Help
4
Dec 16, 2009 12:10 PM
diggerrigger
General Tech Help
4
Oct 11, 2008 02:21 PM
dunorr
General Tech Help
2
Apr 19, 2007 09:22 AM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:36 AM.