I was changing the starter yesterday in my '05 Accord EX 4Cyl. The lower mounting bolt (M12) would not budge. After over an hour, I managed to back it out "click by click" with a ratchet and cheater bar. Not very nice since the radiator is in the way. After getting it out, I noticed the last few threads were damaged and filled with aluminum from the engine block. Of course loosening that bolt all the way screwed up the threads in the engine block. Since that mounting hole goes all the way through, galvanic corrosion occurs at the end of the bolt and the aluminum bonds to it.

I found this guy with a similar problem on the Odyclub forum. I did what he did and made my own thread chaser from an M12 x 1.25 bolt I bought at Lowes. I used PB Blaster to lubricate instead of anti seize compound because I was worried about aluminum shavings sticking to it and ran it though slowly back and forth. I have a new bolt on order from my Honda dealer that will be here in a few days.

My question is... when I install the new bolt, should I use anti seize or blue loctite? My gut feeling is to use anti seize and reduce the torque by 10 or 20% from the 47 ft*lb it calls for. If for some reason the damage to the internal threads was great enough, I might not be able to torque it to 47 before stripping the whole thing. On the other hand, I don't want to take a chance that it loosens on me.

Hoping someone out there has run into this before and will share what worked for them.

 

I would use the anti seize and see what you can get out of it.

 

That confirms what I want to do. Will post how it turns out when I get the bolt on Tuesday.

 

Extreme tightening torque is not necessary. Operating load on starter bolts is primarily from starter motor torque reaction (shear on bolts). Some thrust reaction when starter gear engages the flywheel.

Firmly snug (10-20 ft-lbs perhaps) should work fine. Agree that anti-sieze is indicated.

good luck

 

[QUOTE=jafriede;371116]I was changing the starter yesterday in my '05 Accord EX 4Cyl. The lower mounting bolt (M12) would not budge. After over an hour, I managed to back it out "click by click" with a ratchet and cheater bar. Not very nice since the radiator is in the way. After getting it out, I noticed the last few threads were damaged and filled with aluminum from the engine block. Of course loosening that bolt all the way screwed up the threads in the engine block. Since that mounting hole goes all the way through, galvanic corrosion occurs at the end of the bolt and the aluminum bonds to it.

I found this guy with a similar problem on the Odyclub forum. I did what he did and made my own thread chaser from an M12 x 1.25 bolt I bought at Lowes. I used PB Blaster to lubricate instead of anti seize compound because I was worried about aluminum shavings sticking to it and ran it though slowly back and forth. I have a new bolt on order from my Honda dealer that will be here in a few days.

My question is... when I install the new bolt, should I use anti seize or blue loctite? My gut feeling is to use anti seize and reduce the torque by 10 or 20% from the 47 ft*lb it calls for. If for some reason the damage to the internal threads was great enough, I might not be able to torque it to 47 before stripping the whole thing. On the other hand, I don't want to take a chance that it loosens on me.

Hoping someone out there has run into this before and will share what worked for them.

I think the problem stems from the bolt going through the transmission casing and corrosion or rust (big time in my case ) developing on the end sticking out. . In my case I at first thought it was a nut ,but It was a big ball of rust.
. This end is very difficult to get to. It needs to be cleaned before you attempt to get the bolt out.