We have a 1996 Honda Civic DX hatch back. I decided to replace the rubber bushings in the rear trailing control arms. I thought I had loosed all the fasteners previously. I forgot that I had not removed the bolt from the lower trailing arm and the rear control arm. I soaked the threads in PB blaster, however, I waited less than thirty minutes. I used a ½" craftsman ratchet and it would not budge. I have a long craftsman beaker bar (24") and I decided to give it a try. I heard a pop and thought I cracked the socket. No luck... the bolt broke about ¼" deep. Now I have a pointed bolt sticking beyond a welded tube (nut) and about 2" inside the rubber bushing on the end of the rear control arm? Any suggestion as how I should proceed. I want to minimize any additional damage. I thought about trying to cold chisel the tubular nut off the right rear trailing arm, punch the broken bolt out and then have the nut wire welded back. I thought about trying a left hand drill bit and an easy out. I have not had much luck with easy outs. I usually break them off in the broken bolt and then I have a hardened steel tool to deal with.

I should have heated the nut and reapplied pb blaster until the rust was loose. Should have, could have, wish I had...... This was not my first broken bolt, however, it is in one of the worst spots to date.

Thank you in advance for your ideas. If you don't have any ideas, then maybe you can have a quick laugh at my stupid tactics. I feel like a dumb a$$ and I know...go with the feeling.

Thank you again and remember I did admit to my stupid mistake.

 

I moved your thread to the General Tech Help section. Please do not post help questions in the DIY forum section per forum rules.

 

Please accept my sincere apology! I must admit that I was so excited to find this excellent forum that I have not read all the forum rules. I will read them cover to cover the next rainy day or when my back is killing me. Thank you for relocating my post to the correct forum.

Thank you again for all you do! This is a great forum and I hope to find ways to contribute in some small way.

Sincerely,

BSD

 

If you twisted the bolt head off, you should be able to drive the bolt out w/ a drift punch about same size as bolt and a hammer. Unless the civic is different, the nut is attached to a through bolt.

Post is confusing. Did you twist off both trailing arm and control arm bolts at body side or at wheel side?

good luck

 

I apologize my original post was less than clear. The lower rear arm has three bolts. One bolt goes through the attachment point on the car, the second through the shock fork and the third bolt (the one I twisted off) attaches the rear lower control arm to the trailing arm. The bolt is item 19, part number
90173-SR3-003 and is described as: BOLT, ARM (LOWER) (10X80). The attachment point on the trailing arm (wheel spindle attached) does not have a standard nut. The bolt screws into a threaded steel cylinder that is welded to the trailing arm. The broken bolt sticks out beyond the the stamped "nut" and most of the bolt remains in the lower rear control arm bushing. There is no way to drive it out because the nut (if you can call it a nut) is welded to the trailing arm. Thus my major problem.

Thank you for taking time out of your schedule to respond to my inquiry. I will take a photo of the upper control arm bolt as it is easier to see the attachment point. Same type of connection. Different location.

 

If the nut is welded, grind or cut it off w/ cutting disk and grinder to release. You can find a replacement lower arm at junk yard.

Is the body bracket that rear lower arm attaches to removable? If so, remove the bracket w/ lower arm.

Civic suspension is substantially different from Accord which my first comments were based on.

good luck

 

TexasHonda, Thank you for the suggestion.... it worked like a charm. I used a cutoff wheel on my Dremel and cut through the nut and bold. I used three wheel in the process. I broke one, wore one out and finished with the third wheel. This allowed me to remove the rear trailing arm from the right lower arm. I thought I would be smart and drive the broken bolt out of the metal spacer in the rubber damper. I soaked it in Liquid Wrench and it would not budge. I finally drilled the broken bolt out on Dad's old Craftsman drill press. The bolt was harder than hammered hell and I dulled the bit. I ordered two replacement bolts at the dealer and two hex nuts. It went together great! The bolt securing the left shock to the rear trailing arm was rusted and would not move. I borrowed a friends ½" cordless Milwaukee impact driver. I tightened the bolt slightly and reversed directions about six times. The bolt finally turned loose and backed out without twisting off or damaging the threads. Three more bolts, emergency brake cable and brake line and I am ready to remove the left trailing arm. I will beat out the old rubber dampener and replace it with a new one. Then reassemble the left side and bleed the brakes. My major pain in the but will be complete. Time for new tires and an alignment.

I could have done all this in the summer when it was warm. I kept putting it off because I thought I would be tougher than it was.

Thank you again for your suggestion!