surging at any rpm while driving
#11
ok, had a little time to look at the car today. changed the fuel filter. when I started the car before the filter change, the CEL came on. I did the change and went for a drive, the light stayed on but did not flash. The torque converter appears not to lock up now and when the transmission upshifts, it won't do it until just under 3000 rpm and the shifts are harsh. Not sure whats going on with this crazy car now! I never had a chance to read the code yet with the obdII. When I took it for a drive, there was no bucking at any speed.
#12
The check engine light staying on means a code was stored. Stop by a parts store and have them read the code. The connector is behind the ash tray.
Post the code on here. It will start with the letter P and have 4 numbers.
Post the code on here. It will start with the letter P and have 4 numbers.
#14
Well, the saga continues. I still have to get the obdII from my dad to read the cel code. I changed the transmission oil and went for a drive. The shifting came right back to normal and the rpm dropped back to normal at cruising speed. Great I thought, maybe I'll be brave and reset the CEL. I stopped, pulled the fuse, did the reset. Started the car, CEL was gone. Perfect, took off down the highway, the jerking and bucking is back!! Now I am back to square one, but at least I know that a oil change will clear up the delayed shifts, etc. I guess I will try and clean the shift solenoids tomorrow unless anyone has any other ideas. I still haven't ruled out the 02 sensor as was mentioned before, but will try the solenoids first.
#15
You can check the 96 accord for code(s) the OBD1 way. The OBD2 scanner will give codes with more information in some cases.
Use a piece of wire or a thin paperclip to short the blue two pin connector under the glove box. Then turn the key to the II position. Your car will only have the two pin connector under the glove box.
Count the CEL codes (long blink =10, short=1), so LLLS=41
Count the D4 light flashes (only short blinks).
See: dhost.info/accordinfo/howto/cel.html
The scanners at the parts stores like autozone can read the code(s) for you. It is a free service.
Use a piece of wire or a thin paperclip to short the blue two pin connector under the glove box. Then turn the key to the II position. Your car will only have the two pin connector under the glove box.
Count the CEL codes (long blink =10, short=1), so LLLS=41
Count the D4 light flashes (only short blinks).
See: dhost.info/accordinfo/howto/cel.html
The scanners at the parts stores like autozone can read the code(s) for you. It is a free service.
#16
Well, I pulled the codes today , both codes were for the shift solenoids that I verified the resistance on and forgot to plug back in before I hooked up the obdII. Dummy! anyway, the car shifts great, etc from a cold start with the engine warmed up but it seems that when the transmission gets warm is when the bucking starts. I am baffled now, have verified no air in the coolant, FITV, IACV, the EGR valve looks okay and moves freely. I cleaned both sets of transmission solenoids and verified the resistance as well as putting 12 v to them and they both click. Possible torque converter no good? The obd had pending codes on the o2 sensor and heater, but would not complete the scan of the systems. I waited probably 10 minutes. As mentioned before, maybe an 02 sensor issue? maybe I will check it out electrically. Not sure what else to check.....getting frustrated!!!
#17
Were you ever able to resolve this matter? I’m having the same issues described
Well, I pulled the codes today , both codes were for the shift solenoids that I verified the resistance on and forgot to plug back in before I hooked up the obdII. Dummy! anyway, the car shifts great, etc from a cold start with the engine warmed up but it seems that when the transmission gets warm is when the bucking starts. I am baffled now, have verified no air in the coolant, FITV, IACV, the EGR valve looks okay and moves freely. I cleaned both sets of transmission solenoids and verified the resistance as well as putting 12 v to them and they both click. Possible torque converter no good? The obd had pending codes on the o2 sensor and heater, but would not complete the scan of the systems. I waited probably 10 minutes. As mentioned before, maybe an 02 sensor issue? maybe I will check it out electrically. Not sure what else to check.....getting frustrated!!!
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rufryder
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02-04-2010 05:31 PM