it is not the hose going to the booster,, he said that if he blocked 1 port in the throttle body the idle smoothed out ....
those ports,, 1 is for the fast idle , the other for the air boost valve

 

gsrgofass,

You found your vacuum leak. I think that the vac line coming into the 10 o'clock position is number 9 on the diagram. Is that correct?

Just unplug vac hose 11 from the valve and put your finger over where 11 went in on the valve itself. If the idle stabalizes, then it is definitely that valve. If the idle still fluxuates, then spray some carb cleaner around gasket 10 (while finger stopping valve) and listen for the engine idle to change (carb cleaner entering into the intake and giving a temporary seal or excess fuel to the engine). Then it would be a fault in gasket 10, and you can replace the gasket.

Swapping out parts from a good source is a good way to diagnose, but you need to reset the ECU. Trust me, I learned the hard way on that one.

Vacuum leaks can be tricky to diagnose, but I am sure that you already found the culprit by blocking one of the ports.

 

oops, clicked "ok" twice. Sorry about the second message.

 

look at the rubber diaphram, make sure it does not have a hole in it or a crack ,, i have seen it a few times .....

 

Well......I found the culprit. It was a vacuum leak but not a faulty hose. The vacuum leak was from inside the Starting Valve or Boost Valve. Call it what you will. This is the valve assembly at the complete opposite end of the TPS. It is installed using two 10mm bolts and has 1 vacuum hose which runs the length of the intake between the intake and the firewall.

I removed the valve off my brother's car and put it on mine.........Reset the ECU and voila........No more idle surging.

About the defective part:

I did run my hand all over my valve before removing it. I felt no vacuum leak nor did the engine idle rise when I sprayed it with carb cleaner. I unplugged the only vacuum hose leading from the valve and blocked the valve stem with my finger....the car still surged. At that point I could only assume that changing it for another would not fix my problem. I was wrong.

Valve conclusion:
If you have surging idle and you block the 10 O’clock TPS port as mentioned earlier in the post to stop the problem.........inspect this valve first. I unfortunately started from the right side of the motor and moved to the left. This valve is at the utmost left side. Holy #@%! am I not happy about that.

Do not open the valve before attempting to clean it. The valve is two halves (Upper and Lower) divided by the diaphragm. The top (3 Phillips screws) has a small chamber which leads to the vacuum hose. The bottom half has two portals (Seen when the valve is removed) and two chambers.
Top Chamber
Bottom Chamber

The amount of air flow between the two chambers is permitted by the black rubber donut and that is controlled by the diaphragm/vacuum line on the top half of the valve.
View Of Rubber Grommet
Rubber Grommet In Place

When you find this valve to be suspect with surging idle remove it and spray carb cleaner in one portal through the other in an attempt to remove any buildup. See the "Diaphragm In Place" Link and look on the left side of the photo to see the portals linking the top and bottom chambers.

I opened my valve to inspect it. I sheared most of the screws as seen in the photos. Oh well. I did not find a torn or defective diaphragm.
My Diaphragm
Diaphragm In Place

There was the presence of what appears to be carbon build up and I will assume it prevented the black rubber grommet from seating correctly (Hence the vacuum leak).

One other thing that will give a good indication that the Starting/Boost valve is bad is that if you remove the 3 Phillips screws on top from your IAC valve there WILL be a huge vacuum sound. Very loud and pronounced suction.

If anyone has anything to add please do. I tried to be as clear and accrate as possible. Unfortunately I am not Ernest Hemmingway.

Thanks for everyone's help.

 

Nice post,

If the valve was bad, then plugging up the vacuum connection should have stopped the idle problem. Maybe you have to reset the ECU before you do this.

If you know how to drill out the sheared bolts and tap them, then you could just clean the valve thoroughly and reassemble. Autozone should have the correct bolts. I would replace the gasket where it attaches to the throttle body.

 

I neglected to mention that there is a spring in the top portion of the valve with constant downward force on the diaphragm to open the rubber grommet allowing constant flow between both lower portals. The way I understand the valve to work is when the vacuum is in effect the diaphragm is pulled upwards. When this happens the diaphragm is part of the shaft (Pictured) and consequently the rubber grommet becomes seated or approaches the valve seat stopping all air flow or restricting it to a certain level. Blocking the vacuum line would render the valve inoperable, no? I did however reset the ECU repeatedly since reading it in an earlier post.

I would have drilled out the sheared screws, re-tapped larger thread and cleaned the valve but I have a friend at a garage who had an Accord for parts. I swapped the valve for that one.