The reason I am skeptical is that this the first time I've ever heard ofa brake problem like the one you havedescribed. Since you have owned 5 Accords in the past, surely you can understand how other Accord owners might react that way at first.

It would be much better if you went into great detail about the brake history of the car.

But first, how many miles on thecar?Have you always had the car serviced at the same place and is that the place you bought the car? Is the car still under warranty and, if it is, how much is left?

How do you know the rotors are, or have been, warped? What are the symptoms you notice when you brake?

Does your car have 4-wheel disk brakes?

Is it always the same one(s) that warp and, if so, which ones?

How many times have the rotors been replaced since new and, if so, were the pads replaced each time? Regardless, how many times have the pads been replaced?

Specifically aboutyour 1-day experience -did you take your car to Honda anddid they tell you that you had warped rotors? What exactly did they do on that day? Did you then drive out of the Honda dealership and, even though you took it easy on the brakes, were therotors warped again within1 day? If not, what was wrong within one day after leaving Honda?

 

Jim, I have to disagree on your method of bedding in the brakes. Sure you have to brake hard AFTER a long series of lighter braking BUILDING to hard braking, but if you only brake hard, you risk warping the new equipment via your method of preventing this.

 

One more question - do you by any chance live in San Francisco?

 

Just to be clear, it's JimBlake's method and he recommended it.

But regardless of that, I have tried it myself. It works. And I also recommend it.

Edit: I see that falk made the correction.

 

Sorry Tony ..... I noticed that and changed it ..... I still don't like his method. I build to hard braking so that the roughest surfaces are removed under LIGHT braking. As you increase the force, the rotors get smoother. To each his own, but I would not put A LOT of stress on the new parts for at least 500 miles.

 

To me, this is the most important part of Jim's method.

I changed my rotorsacouple of months ago using some extremelyinexpensive Chinese-manufactured rotors. I usedJim's method to condition themand they are still performing perfectly. I have no reason to doubt that they will continue to do so.

In general, it think it is a good idea to come to slow stops rather than abrupt stops that will certainly heat up the rotor very quickly - and, most importantly, maybe unevenly. If I have to do that, after stopping I usually put on the emergency and release the brake pedal.

With this theory in mind, racing around with hard braking should be fine as long as no full stops are involved. Supporting this theory is the fact that if severe heating and coolingcycles by themselvescaused warping, nobody in Nascar would be using disc brakes.

Think these brakes are hot? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-GKdp5hye0

 

Thanks guys for all of your suggestions. Firstly, I live in Toronto, Canada (makes Des Moines look downright hilly). My dealer who has been servicing the car since day one does not deny there is a problem and has been fixing this under warranty. I am also purchsed that 7 year 100k mile extendedwarranty which I am told will cover this until 100k.The car now has 40k miles on it and has had the rotors replaced 3 times and machined on three other occasions but to be honest I am not sure how often the brake pads have been changed if at all. Like Tony, myservice dealer claims that they have never encountered this problem before. The car has 4 wheel disk brakes and the problem only occurs on the front disks.

The last time I brought the car in I said that I wanted the car fixed properly and they said that they will replace the rotors one more time and chek other area sof the car for deficiencies. I drove the car off the lot and it was like a new car. Smooth and clean on stops. One day later the shaking continued unabated and as bad as ever.

The symptoms are the the car vibrates and shakesheavily under braking, worse at higher speeds but still noticeable at 20mph and less. As such I tend to dread driving the car because it is so unpleasant.

Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread.

 

Not only has he NOT beenfixing the problem, he hasn't even identified it. If he had, you would have only gone back to the dealership once.

I feel sorry for what you've gone through.

You know, in the automobile business, scruples are sometimes not in the parts inventories of some establishments. With that in mind, did you absolutelyconfirm that they in factchanged the rotors on your last visit? That is, could you, or did you, actually see them replace the rotors, or did you drop off the car and come back later? (Come to think of it, did you EVER absolutely confirm that they've replaced the rotors?)

Does the car have ABS? If so, does what you feel in the pedal/car resemble what you feel when the ABS system activates under reallyhard braking? If you don't know, go ahead and try some hard braking to find out. (Can't hurt what's already screwed up, right?) If you observe that the car's behavior under hard, ABS-activated braking, is similar to "every day" easy braking, thenyou shouldhave the ABS system checked for proper operation.

Hey,ABS experts - is there any way to temporarily and easilyde-activate the ABS system on a newer Accord?

Do yourself a big favor. Long before your warranty expires, call up a number of Honda dealerships and ask the service managers in all of those places whether he/she has everworked onan example of your modelvehicle that had the same behavior that your car has been exhibiting.(It's a rare thing, so if any of them have worked on one, they'lllikely remember it.)If you're lucky, at least one will say "yes, we worked on a car that did the same thing". Then take the car to that dealership for warranty service.

If no dealership can fix the car in the near future, you must contact Honda Canada Customer Relations and inform them of your continuingbrake problem. The most important thing to guide your action is that, whatever happens, get things resolved to your satisfaction while the car is still under warranty. Now is the best time to do it.
http://www.honda.ca/HondaCA2006/ContactUs/ContactUs.htm?L=E

Good luck.

 

I have done it my way a number of times (successfully). But what you're saying does make sense & I'll probably start doing it that way.
Actually, when I think about it, I don't slam the brakes right away. I normally have to drive a bit before there's enough room to do my method.