Did you check for stored codes?

Check the fluid level and condidtion. Check the movement/adjustment of the throttle control cable.

Jut me but with the t-stat out, stayed at 2500 rpm's, the converter was not locking up.

 

Problem solved, I bleed the air again and gone, no more, it seemed to big a big buble inside the engine, now the car runs nice and smoth thanks fir the replays

 

The temperature gauge is stable, and were is supposed to be, since the engine is running hotte r due to the ttast which OEM, I haven't check for codes yet, very busy from school and job, but in spring brake I will, I bouth this car a month ago so I want it to be at its best....thanks again and see u around

 

Hey is the car is back to normal.....congrats and thanks for the update....I wouldn't even worry with the checking the codes.

Can I guess it is running at ~2300 rpm's at 60 now?

 

You are right, car runnin at 2300 rmp's @ 60, 2500 @ 65mph, back to normal, finally lol. Now I'm gona change o ring and distributor seal, leaking oil, but that's a difference history, I gotta it.

 

Well, after three days running perfect it started doing it again ....it started right after i filled the ABS system. It was empty almost, but what does this have to do with the idle? oh well, changed transmisssion fluid after that, car is shifting great, way better than before, i cant feel the gears when shift. I think after all, i will have to check for the codes ....will read this well to see, oh by the way, is there any post around here that says how to adjust the throtle cable? thanks

 

In the common diy thread on top of the gen tech help forum has a link to cleaning EGR ports. That is a common problem on accords, so it is worth trying to clean the ports.

Here is a video on adjusting the throttle cable from the gas pedal to the throttle body. It is the same procedure to do the cable that goes from the throttle body to the transmission. You want a little bit of slack.

 

i cleaned the EGR ports, was the first thing i did when i noticed the problem, still the same after that. What i cant understan is why when i take the thermostat out, it does do it, it just goes high at 2500rpms at 60mph, but when i put the thermostat back again, it goes down to normal, i dont get it, 3 people have told me that it could be the torque converter lockup, but again, why would the thermostat be causing this on the torque converter? no sense to me, well, im not a mechanic. The throtle seems pretty good to me, is no lose, is not tight, it is perfect, no, i did tes the transmission solenoid, i heard the two at the bottom less noisy than the one on top, here is the video, What do you think?
CHECKED FOR CODES, NON, CERO, DOESNT FLASH, THE ONLY LIGT THAT FLASH ON THE DASH IS THE SRS LIGHT, WHICH FLASH ALL THE TIME, ENGINE LIGHT STAYS ON, DONT FLASH, TRANSMISSION DOESNT FLASH EITHER. is it good or bad. sorry for many questions in one post, just trying to figure this ut with any possibility

 

Don't take this the wrong way but I'm going to ask again.....the fluid and the throttle control cable?

How long have you had this car? Did this start all at once, as soon as you got the car or after doing "X"

Again as I read this, the ect is part of the lock up for the trans-read about it in the service manual if you get bored one day....or need something to put you to sleep. The issue is that with the t-stat out then the ect does not see the proper temp and not allow the lock up of the converter. With the stat in the temp from the ect is "in range" but "something" is telling the converter to go into/out of lock up.

Did you take the stat back out? If so put it back so we can at least start some tests with everything "as it should be". If you did take the stat back out, bleed the cooling system once again - with the heat on - just to be sure there is no air.

 

No lol, you can ask all you want, im glad you are trying to help me here
-I did three transmission flushes
-Throttle cables looks perfect to me, "cruise control does not work"
-I have had the car for 5 weeks
-Thermostat open when i bought it, so the rpms used to go high at 25000 @ 60.
-Problem started after i put a thermostat (From Autozone)since the one it had was open, rpms went down to 2300 at 60 but like you see on the video, up and down. So o took it out and was semi open, let the car without thermostat, car went back to when i bought it, rpms at 2500(no thermostat). Put a Honda OEM thermostat back, problem went away for 5 days, started doing it again, here is when i did the two more transmission flushes making a total of three, the first flush i did it with the Autozone thermostat.
-yesterday, when read your post, i took thermostat out to see if the first time i did it was a coincidence, well, it was not, car again at 2500rpms
-Put thermostat back this morning, and like you told me, i flushed the radiator, heat valve open, fan off. Went to test drive, again, problem still there. Is not as much as the video, lot less, but still there.
NOW< CAR READY TO START THE TESTS YOU SAID
Ask me any question, if you want a video of the car running ill make it.