I have a 2000EX 4 cylinder with a 5 MT, I bought new. Currently have 155K+ on it, the single most expensive cost of ownership has been tires. I've never had a CV problem with this car, replaced the brakes, plugs, O2 sensor's, T'belt, waterpump at 105K. Like other's have said, no matter what kind of car you buy, brakes, tires, and oil changes are required. Other than the normal maintenance no other problem's. I expect my next "major cost" will be 4 new Bridgestone Potenza 960's in another 20K miles. From that point I should easily cruise into the 210K level w/o any major issues. On Civic's, I had a '93 coupe that I got rid of at 305K. It had an oil leak and needed a CV joint. If the body had been in better shape I would have fixed the problem's and kept it.

 

A couple of other thing's you want to consider when you buy a new or newer car. Registration cost, insurance, sales tax usually 6% or more and even the cost of new tires. I have 15" on my car many of the newer car's have 17" and larger. Check out the cost of tires 17" and larger tires. Significantly more money. Many states also have property tax.

 

The problem is that you often don't know until AFTER you've sunk too muck money into a car. Total investment is just so incremental. One day you wake up and realize you have $5k invested in a '92 daily driver!

I have had good luck buying bomber cars/trucks (e.g., Accord, Toyota trucks), which come with complete records, at about 100k miles and then selling them at 200k. I know many get well >200k on these cars, but my theory is that big repair bills are more common >200k.

I have often found the right car for <$2k and sold it for about $750 to $1k.

Roy

 

^$5K in a DD, if you've been driving it since new, that's a very cheap piece of transportation. ($250/year) You seem to have a very good program to R&R car's every 100K and still get back 1/2 of what you put into them. I tend to purchase new and hold on until they are on their death bed. The Civic I had with 305K on it was never taken care of. I purchased it at 180K and I don't believe even the timing belt had been replaced. The oil was like sludge, but the price was right. I still got >125K out of it even it that condition. Once you have a car for a long time, you have a fairly good idea of what the future prognosis is.

 

When the car is more of a hassle than its worth and no longer runs reliable. However if your really attached to your car you may consider rebuild. The cost of rebuilding a car if mechanically inclined can be much cheaper than a new car. You can do a basic rebuild on a stock motor for cheaper than a new motor. Ive had several cars and some let go before 100k others made it over 250k before letting them go. I will say nissan, toyota and last but not least honda all seam to.have motors that tend to be very reliable.

 

Where some people defy logic in this area, is where they really REALLY like the car and they do their own maintenance. You can do a HUGE amount of DIY work for the price of a new-car payment.

It's a bit of an ego trip to have a 20 year old car that's in NICE shape, running really well, with over 200k miles. That makes it worthwhile for a lot of people.

 

major point.
i scored a new pair of 17 Falkens with my 09. i get tires wholesale and four 17s for an Accord is a chunk of money. im hoping to get 60K out of these tires though. i drive 125 miles a week