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When is it time to *not* get it repaired ... broken down in up-state NY

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  #1  
Old 07-23-2015, 11:51 AM
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Unhappy When is it time to *not* get it repaired ... broken down in up-state NY

Hi everyone,

On the way back from a family summer trip to NYC from southern Ontario, our four-cylinder 1999 Accord turned over 250,000km on the odometer then slowly died within the next 30 minutes (weird coincidence). After getting through the Poconos with some sluggishness, the car became increasingly less responsive to throttle and began to lose all acceleration.

By the time my family and I had limped it off the I90 between Syracuse and Rochester, the car could barely keep 20 mph up. Initially, it was revving very high, almost like it wouldn't shift from 3rd to 4th as I tried to accelerate. The car is fine idling in park, but trying to get it going in any gear means loud engine, bad chuggishness when it tries to change gears, revving problems, and complete lack of acceleration. Some of the 20 miles of small rolling hills between the I90 and Auburn? I could walk faster up the hill.

We had to leave the car at the Honda dealer in Auburn (nice town) and rent a car back at Syracuse airport to get home 36 hours later because of the wait time to get it looked at. No engine codes thrown. No warning lights. The only thing they've noticed on the test drive was "serious lack of acceleration" and not a lot of exhaust coming out of the tailpipe. Yeah, I knew that.

So maybe it's a completely clogged catalytic convertor ($1,000). Or a fuel pump or line? Or transmission. I don't know. But at what point do you financially say that $1,500 or $2,000 is just too much for that car? The goal was to drive it until it died ... is it at that point? Any idea of thoughts? Very stressed that I had to leave my car across border and 4 hours away, and that the dealer still hasn't looked at it, but I had to get the family home. I know folks with this same car that have 450,000km on it so it suspect it's worth fixing, but am not that car-knowledgable.

Really, thanks for any help/advice.
 

Last edited by DaveyJJ; 07-23-2015 at 02:59 PM.
  #2  
Old 07-23-2015, 06:00 PM
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Sorry to hear about your Accord's troubles, Davey. I think you've answered your own question... any time it cost more to repair than the vehicle is worth to you... it's time to let it go

Plus, it may be a sign that even if you correct this particular problem, with a '99 @ 250K, it's likely to have more issues as time goes on
 
  #3  
Old 07-24-2015, 09:39 AM
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Was the head gasket confirmed as good because often times with Honda's when it fails it start out with subtle sluggishness and within 10 to 30 miles the engine will cut out. Assuming it is not the head and it is a clogged CAT 1k seems right if you are going to use a factory CAT, otherwise you should be looking at 5 to 6 hundred for and after market. Albeit the aftermarket parts are not that good and you will likely have to replace it sooner then a factory, be advised that the EPA requires all CATs to be warranted for 80k. So if you go that route make sure you get the paper work for install and be prepared for the fact that when it does fail, if under the 80k limit you will still be required to pay shop labor for the swap.
 
  #4  
Old 07-26-2015, 10:26 PM
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Sounds like a clogged cat to me. Did you baby the car on a daily basis? If so, the clogged cat is the most likely scenario. The low volume of exhaust exiting the tail pipe is a dead give away. Too much back pressure will then build up and the car will start to run rough and then just stop after a bit. The last time I dealt with a similar issue I had no codes show up at all. Reading the engine operating parameters I noted that the manifold temperature got extremely high just before the engine stalled. Other than that, no codes, and no other symptoms other than no acceleration followed by an engine stall......at 250K, I'd be inclined to just let it go....but it's your car and your money and memories......sean
 
  #5  
Old 07-26-2015, 11:31 PM
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I've put more $ and effort into keeping a '97 running at 250,000 than I should have.
Wish I could go back 18 months.

My experience suggests different car.
 
  #6  
Old 07-27-2015, 12:30 AM
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I think it depends on the car payment you would have on your next car.

Not sure what you would buy right now. Lets say you have $1000 for a new catalytic converter, but your car payment would be $200/month, then you hope the repair would last 5 months.
 
  #7  
Old 07-28-2015, 10:23 AM
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First off, thanks to everyone who has taken the time to write. I appreciate the input, feedback, suggestions and information at what is a bit of an unfamiliar and stressful time for me and my wife.

So, update time ...

As of last Friday, the dealer told me the exhaust and catalytic converter all checked out fine. As did the fuel line/pump/pressure. The plugs are okay, but in "lean running condition", and their next step was to check bad gas (since I'd filled up about 30 minutes before it really started crapping out in some small town, no-name station off highway 81 heading toward Syracuse).

As of yesterday, they'd drained the tank and put new gas in and it seemed to idle fine, and were taking it out on the road this morning for some "good miles."

Just got the call this morning ... at idle she's fine, but the road test was exactly the same. Sluggish, no acceleration, chugging and jerking when the automatic is changing gears and revving. No change at all. The technician, who I'm told has 30 years of experience, calls it "a strange one" and is apparently really at a loss. There are no engine codes or any computer data the Honda guys can find saying that there is anything wrong. Nada.

I'm at US$452 to date and still without a working car.

Their next suggestions are: rotor and distributor ($327). After that, PCM (2 more days and $438). Without any guarantee the car is going to run correctly.

For that first $300 I can probably get the car shipped back home, but for what? A local mechanic to start charging me? I think I'm ready to throw in the towel. I think I can simply sell them the car as is (I;m sure one of the mechanics would take it, or maybe a local junker) for the price of the repairs? Do I want to be out $1,000+ if they keep going with still nothing to show for it. I've got $8,000 in cash if I wanted a decent used car from a dealer I know here.

Now what?

But the most frustrating thing is not knowing what the hell is wrong with that car. :-)
 

Last edited by DaveyJJ; 07-28-2015 at 04:06 PM.
  #8  
Old 07-29-2015, 12:34 PM
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Going to have them check one more thing before bringing a tow truck in for an expensive cross-border tow. After talking to a local Honda guy he's told me that he has seen a few manifold pressures sensors get gunked up with thing like spider webs. Can't hurt to check the MAP sensor before calling it a day.
 
  #9  
Old 07-29-2015, 02:13 PM
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Put it in perspective.
Car payments.
Do you still like the car?
What can you buy for $3000?
I'd ask the mechanic if he can rule out the transmission.
May be have him do a compression and leakdown check.
If all is well, let him have at it.
But I know, that is a big gamble.
There are some brilliant minds on this forum, maybe some have specific ideas on your symptoms.
 
  #10  
Old 07-29-2015, 08:32 PM
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Thanks again for everyone's help. I spoke again to my local mechanic who wants me to tow it back so he can have at it. That's what I'll be doing.
 
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