My car was snowed in for about two weeks, with temperatures ranging from 0-30 F. I did not start it in that time. When things thawed out enough I went to start it and the engine won't turn over, I just hear a click.
I've gone through some of the recommended tests and they seemed to point to the starter. I took the starter out and took it to Schuck's and it tested out "ok".

How likely is it that the starter is still at fault even though it tested out ok? Here are the test results:

Voltage Test PASSED (reading was 14.32)
Current Test PASSED (reading was 75.05)
Solenoid Test -NA- (does this mean the solenoid wasn't tested, or that it didn't need to be tested?)
Off Amps reading was 0

The battery is new. All the warning lights on the dash behave as expected. The headlights dim very slightly when i turn the ignition to start. the battery, ground, and starter connections are clean and tight. the fuses all look good. I tried all 3 of my keys. I pulled the ignition coil fuse and hooked up a remote starter and could not get the starter to turn over that way.

Is there anything else to consider or try given my particular model? Could the starter cut relay be a concern even though i couldn't get it to turn over with the remote starter?

 

Did you hit the starter with a mallet or anything yet? The starter solenoid to engage the spur gear could be frozen or bad.

 

I did. I hit it from above and then again from below while turning the key to start. Is there a way to tell if it is bad before taking a chance on replacing it? I'm pretty sure this is the original starter.

So the bench test at schuck's won't tell me if the solenoid is bad? That seems horribly misleading somehow. Or did I misunderstand?

 

It would tell you if it's bad, I don't know why they didn't test it. You can test the solenoid with jumper cables, but I can't picture exactly how in my head at the moment, but I've done it.

 

This is what I did: I removed the blk/white wire from the solenoid, connected a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to the solenoid, disabled the ignition coil by pulling the fuse, and turned the key to start expecting that the starter would then turn over. It did not.

Is this the test you were thinking of? Is it a good or bad idea to repeat this test without disabling the ignition coil?

 

I tested it out of the engine, the wires need to be bridged with something conductive (I used a screwdriver ) and then power supplied to it.

I think it went:
- Screwdriver bridging starter motor and starter solenoid connectors
- Neg. lead connected to starter frame and - battery post
- Pos. lead connected to starter motor post

The starter will not crank until the solenoid is engaged (I believe). My memory is evading me, but there is a way.

 

I will see about doing an at-home bench test on the starter/solenoid.

Is there anything I should try before pulling the starter back out? If the solenoid tests out ok what would the next suspect be?

 

What was the CCA (cold cranking amps) on your battery? Is that the same as what you have listed as "amps" from the test? I recently had a new battery that had a very low CCA and wouldn't start the next day after sitting for about 24 hours. The battery was still under warranty so they replaced it.

 

It was the solenoid.

When I bench tested at home it would not crank. Turns out that the bench tester at Schuck's has bad on-screen instructions for this model of starter, such that the solenoid is bypassed and only the starter motor is tested.

Thanks for the help!