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Won't Start - No Spark??

  #1  
Old 01-02-2011, 07:53 PM
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Default Won't Start - No Spark??

Long story short, my car wouldn't start about a month ago. I figured it was the distributor cap/rotor because I had recently taken it apart to do some other work. I replaced the cap and rotor, and then it fired right up like a champ. Now, after sitting for about a week, she cranks, but will not start. I replaced the cap and rotor a second time, but still nothing. Both the cap and rotor were VERY corroded, which was surprising, since I had only driven about 800 miles since they were installed.

What could be causing this to happen? Is there some sort of electrode that may have gone out that is causing this to happen? I need to get her running ASAP, as I am going to have to borrow a car to get my wife and I home tonight.

Thanks!
 
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Old 01-02-2011, 10:15 PM
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What is happening when the car is not starting? Does the starter turn the engine.
 
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Old 01-02-2011, 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by PAhonda
What is happening when the car is not starting? Does the starter turn the engine.
Exactly. It just cranks and cranks and cranks. I jumped it, replaced the d-cap and rotor again, jiggled the three plugs just aft of the distributor, but no dice. I was going to pull one of the plugs and check for spark, but was at my in-laws and didn't have the proper socket. Had to borrow a car to get home. Hoping I can fix it next weekend.
 
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Old 01-03-2011, 01:02 AM
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What work have you done on the car recently? Give us the full details.

You will need to verify if you have no spark or no fuel.

The quickest way to verify spark is to hook up a timing light to one spark plug wire at a time and see if it flashes when you start the engine. If you don't have a timing light, then you can pull a spark plug wire and use an old one to test for spark. If you see no spark, then that test is definitive. Sometimes, people will see spark with this test, but it could still be a weak spark.

Speaking of plugs, when was the last time you replaced them? Use the NGK that are recommended in the owners manual.

Also, check for error codes from the ECU and TCU. See How to check for CEL codes thread in the DIY section. Post any codes you find on here.

Fuel is trickier to test.

When you first turn the key to the II position, don't try to start the car, and listen carefully for the fuel pump to prime. It is a faint whirling/buzzing sound that comes from the back seat while the check engine light is on for ~2 seconds. Turn off the radio, heater, etc, so you can listen for it. If you hear the pump, then the fuel relay is working.

You can pull the intake tube from the throttle body. Have an assistant try to start the car. Open the throttle plate a bit and spray starting fluid. If the car starts/stumbles, then you have a fuel delivery problem.

I would also have a volt meter ready to test for 12V on the blk/yel wire on the distributor to ground (I use a valve cover bolt) when you turn the key to the II position.
 
  #5  
Old 01-03-2011, 02:33 PM
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I pulled the distributor in order to replace the heater hose located directly beneath it. After putting everything together, it ran fine for two days, then it wouldn't start. So, I replaced the d-cap and rotor, which were very corroded, and it fired right up. Yesterday, it wouldn't start again. I pulled the d-cap and rotor, and both were VERY corroded, considering I had only driven about 800 miles. I picked up a new d-cap and rotor, and installed them. But, it just cranks and cranks.

I'm thinking that the coil may have been going out, causing the severe corrosion on the cap and rotor. Now, since it won't fire at all, I'm thinking the coil may be dead. Any thoughts??

I'd love to be able to do the step-by-step troubleshooting, but my car is now located 100 miles away, and I need a most-likely scenario, so I can drive down with the parts this coming weekend, and fix it, and bring it home.

Your help is much appreciated!
 
  #6  
Old 01-03-2011, 02:42 PM
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It might be the ignition coil as well, but cant say anything without troubleshooting step by step.
It happened to me recently, I changed the plugs and wires, tried to jump, changed the ignition coil, changed the distributor cap and rotor, everything myself. Checked the fuel pump relay, But it would just crank and not start.
I had to get it towed and, the whole distributor needed to be changed.
I hope you do not have to go through all the trouble.
It may be just the spark plug wire loose not placed in order. So first check for the order and the sparks.
Good luck.
 
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Old 01-03-2011, 03:07 PM
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I talked to the dealer, and they said that the most common cause of a no spark condition was either the coil, or the ignitor. In any case, new distributor from my local auto parts store (~$170) has both of those. A new distributor from the dealer costs over $600. . .
 
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Old 01-09-2011, 12:43 PM
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So, this story just keeps getting longer and longer. . .

I realize that I may have a problem with my coil/igniter. . .however, right now, I do in fact have spark and she will run. But. . .

Every time I go to start the car, the check engine light stays on for anywhere between 5 and 45 seconds. After it goes out, the fuel pump runs, and then the car starts right up. I have already replaced the main relay, and that did not solve the problem. Could the problem be with the ignition switch or the ECM? I'm running out of ideas. What could be causing this delayed starting problem????
 
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Old 01-09-2011, 04:03 PM
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I would do the procedure to check for CEL codes in the DIY section.

What have you done to the car since your Jan 3rd post to get it running?

For thoroughness, did you replace the relay that is shown on the link below? The 94 location is shown towards the bottom of the page.

techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelaydefine.html
 
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Old 01-09-2011, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by PAhonda
I would do the procedure to check for CEL codes in the DIY section.

What have you done to the car since your Jan 3rd post to get it running?

For thoroughness, did you replace the relay that is shown on the link below? The 94 location is shown towards the bottom of the page.

techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelaydefine.html

Since my last post, I have confirmed that I DO have spark, and replaced the main relay. However, the new main relay had absolutely no affect on my no start problem.

The way I got the car to start was simply to turn the key to the run position, and let it sit. After about 45 seconds, the fuel pump clicked on, and the check engine light went off. Then it fired right up. Once the car has been running, this delay drops to anywhere between 5 and 15 seconds.

Would you be able to give me a quick run down on how to check for codes. I looked in the DIY section, but I'm a little confused. What is the best way to jump the service connector? Just with a piece of bailing wire? What does jumping the service connector actually do?

Thanks so much for the help!
 

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