If the ECU detects a problem, it will set and store a code. That procedure will allow you to read the specific code.

Any piece of wire that will fit into those connectors will work. Once the connector is shorted, you turn the key to the II position, then count the check engine and the D4 light flashes to get the error codes.

 

This is the service connector, right? Nothing seems to happen when I jump the connector

 

That is not the connector.

The connector is under the glove box. See the dhost link that I put in the DIY writeup.

Where did you find that connector? What did it plug into?

 

I looked closer. That is actually the holder that the 2 pin connector sits in and clips up under the glove box.

I jumped the connector and the check engine light just stays on. It does not blink at all. However, the ABS light throws code 18. . .

 

You are right for that holder. I didn't recognize that.

ABS is unrelated to your problem, so don't worry about that.

I am giving you the procedure from the 94 shop manual that you can download from the spooner link in the Online Manuals thread in the DIY section. Page 11-27. I suggest that you download that manual to see what I am talking about. You will need a volt meter for some of the tests.

The next step is to check the ECU fuse in the engine bay fuse box. The other check is for the fuel pump fuse in the driver's side under dash fuse box.

 

All fuses in engine bay are good and fuel pump fuse is good under dash.

 

There are some tests that you can do on the wiring, but you will need to back-probe the connector.

It sounds like you have an internal problem at the ECU, or possibly a wiring problem.

I would go to a site like car-part.com and search for local junkyards that have the ecu for your accord. I would swap out the ECU and see if it fixes the problem.

I hate just throwing parts at the car, so see if you can return the ECU if the problem does not go away when you change them.

 

What do you mean by back-probe the connector?

I was beginning to think ECU as well. I will check around and see what I can find.

Thank you for your help. I will report back with news.

 

If you look at the manual, it tells you to connect a test harness, which a DIY person will not have. The test harness allows you to measure voltage, etc with everything plugged in.

Back-probing is a way for a DIY person to test for voltage, etc with the connectors plugged together. You stick a needle into the back of the electrical connector, so you can use your volt meter on a circuit that is plugged in.

 

So, is the ICM the same as the ECU?