Header or Camshaft??
#11
If anything, I'd think you'd be running lean - but every engine and ECU is different.
Right now you're intake system is pretty open - no air box - and you're injecting more air into the engine. You are putting more gas in as well, and some vapors you'll smell. Engine light on?
You may need to check the ECU mapping, since you're now operating at or towards the end of the curve/map due to added air - when driving at full speed. An exhaust gas analyzer or an air/fuel ratio meter hooked to the O2 sensor will tell if you run rich, and that will require some remapping of the ECU.
You smell gas at the tail pipe, or engine bay? You can also pull a s.plug and see if is smoked, wet, etc. Did not see any mention on engine light being on, however it may come on due to these intake changes.
If the plugs are clean and brownish you're more than likely ok. Only check after driving a while, then let the engine cool down and pull a plug.
Best test again is an exhaust gas reading.
However, if you confirm running rich, you need to address it quick. Not good for the engine and cat.
Do you notice anything different in the way the car runs - like loss of power at high speed, slow acceleration, etc??
Right now you're intake system is pretty open - no air box - and you're injecting more air into the engine. You are putting more gas in as well, and some vapors you'll smell. Engine light on?
You may need to check the ECU mapping, since you're now operating at or towards the end of the curve/map due to added air - when driving at full speed. An exhaust gas analyzer or an air/fuel ratio meter hooked to the O2 sensor will tell if you run rich, and that will require some remapping of the ECU.
You smell gas at the tail pipe, or engine bay? You can also pull a s.plug and see if is smoked, wet, etc. Did not see any mention on engine light being on, however it may come on due to these intake changes.
If the plugs are clean and brownish you're more than likely ok. Only check after driving a while, then let the engine cool down and pull a plug.
Best test again is an exhaust gas reading.
However, if you confirm running rich, you need to address it quick. Not good for the engine and cat.
Do you notice anything different in the way the car runs - like loss of power at high speed, slow acceleration, etc??
#12
If anything, I'd think you'd be running lean - but every engine and ECU is different.
Right now you're intake system is pretty open - no air box - and you're injecting more air into the engine. You are putting more gas in as well, and some vapors you'll smell. Engine light on?
You may need to check the ECU mapping, since you're now operating at or towards the end of the curve/map due to added air - when driving at full speed. An exhaust gas analyzer or an air/fuel ratio meter hooked to the O2 sensor will tell if you run rich, and that will require some remapping of the ECU.
You smell gas at the tail pipe, or engine bay? You can also pull a s.plug and see if is smoked, wet, etc. Did not see any mention on engine light being on, however it may come on due to these intake changes.
If the plugs are clean and brownish you're more than likely ok. Only check after driving a while, then let the engine cool down and pull a plug.
Best test again is an exhaust gas reading.
However, if you confirm running rich, you need to address it quick. Not good for the engine and cat.
Do you notice anything different in the way the car runs - like loss of power at high speed, slow acceleration, etc??
Right now you're intake system is pretty open - no air box - and you're injecting more air into the engine. You are putting more gas in as well, and some vapors you'll smell. Engine light on?
You may need to check the ECU mapping, since you're now operating at or towards the end of the curve/map due to added air - when driving at full speed. An exhaust gas analyzer or an air/fuel ratio meter hooked to the O2 sensor will tell if you run rich, and that will require some remapping of the ECU.
You smell gas at the tail pipe, or engine bay? You can also pull a s.plug and see if is smoked, wet, etc. Did not see any mention on engine light being on, however it may come on due to these intake changes.
If the plugs are clean and brownish you're more than likely ok. Only check after driving a while, then let the engine cool down and pull a plug.
Best test again is an exhaust gas reading.
However, if you confirm running rich, you need to address it quick. Not good for the engine and cat.
Do you notice anything different in the way the car runs - like loss of power at high speed, slow acceleration, etc??
#13
and no no difference in the way the car drives....except the fact that i changed the SRI to a CAI and now it seems like it accelerates quicker...louder idle and sounds like more air is coming out of the tail pipe at idle..
#14
What error code? If it's really the knock sensor, do you want to replace it yourself?
#15
like i said..im takin Auto Technician school and found out that really knock sensors rarely go bad...theres no actual way a machine can tell you exactly whats wrong with a car....jus gotta know how to diagnose it...its def not the knock sensor.....check engine light deals with emissions so it could possibly mean that it jus needs to be cleaned or the o2 sensor or a number of things...
#16
Sure, knock sensors can go bad if you hit them with a wrench or you unplug their wires. Problem is, you have a check-engine light & you don't seem to want to read the error code.
Check-engine light just means that your ECM has stored some kind of error code. There's a few hundred things that can cause it, so plug in a scanner & read the code. That narrows it down to the system or function that's not working right.
THEN you start diagnosing.
Check-engine light just means that your ECM has stored some kind of error code. There's a few hundred things that can cause it, so plug in a scanner & read the code. That narrows it down to the system or function that's not working right.
THEN you start diagnosing.
#18
sounds like a bunch of B.S. huh?? well if you knew what you were talking about everything i post is actually possible...ECU management...bore n stroke...camshaft upgrades...learn about those then you can come and criticize me on what im talkin about..
#19
Sure, knock sensors can go bad if you hit them with a wrench or you unplug their wires. Problem is, you have a check-engine light & you don't seem to want to read the error code.
Check-engine light just means that your ECM has stored some kind of error code. There's a few hundred things that can cause it, so plug in a scanner & read the code. That narrows it down to the system or function that's not working right.
THEN you start diagnosing.
Check-engine light just means that your ECM has stored some kind of error code. There's a few hundred things that can cause it, so plug in a scanner & read the code. That narrows it down to the system or function that's not working right.
THEN you start diagnosing.
#20
yeah its all possible. i was just referring to the fact that you try to pretend that you know so much about your car and how to build it, but you really have no experiance in the matter. everything you post gives it away. i would ask you what the most extensive repair/mod is that you have done yourself but you'll probly just make something up anyways.