I'm in Portland, Or. and I've got an ailing 2002 Accord EX 4 Cyl...230k and the auto trans is finally giving out. Been a good car, and I'm a pretty good mechanic, so I'm going to attempt the rebuild myself. It's acting like the clutch packs are worn out, it's not staying engaged in d4 and erratically and harshly shifting in lower gears as well. Has 0740, 0730 codes, torque converter doesn't lock up. Any help/advice appreciated. I'll be looking for a good tech manual source, the OEM Service Manual if I can find one, or get a source for online manual.

 

For a manual, I've used "automanualsource" before and been happy with what I got.

If you are going to do the rebuild, look into the "kits" for the valve body. Many of these suffered from a sticking valve that would cut the trans fluid flow through the trans cooler below ~1500 rpm.......think about sitting/moving in traffic and there is no fluid flow through the trans cooler....talk about cooking.

 

I'm pretty much thinking this is an internal issue, but I'd hate to pull down the tranny only to find it's a control issue. What's anyone think of the symptoms? No converter lockup, free-revving in d4(no engagement at times, just revvs), erratic and jolting shifts in lower gears, no engagement at times when taking off from stop...almost 240k, and when I pulled the plate with shift selenoids, it had significant metal on the screen(not totally plugged, but "significant" meaning a pretty good layer). Gonna take it out one more time for last evaluation, any specific road test I should do?

 

We have any auto trans gurus here that might share their wisdom on this??? Took my car out to evaluate, and couldn't get it to act up when cold, but I'd been noticing that it took some miles before symptoms started...with no top gear torque converter lockup, is that a top gear switch issue, possibly??? Trying to get some solid input before I dive in for the rebuild...

 

How long since the ATF has been fully cycled with a 3x3 fluid change? I had a friend with an Accord with symptoms similar to yours and draining and refilling (with genuine Honda DW-1 ATF) three quarts three times (hence the 3x3 designation) cured the issue completely.

 

I've done 2 or 3 trans fluid changes in the time i've owned it since new...last one was about 20k ago, fluid looks decent, not burnt smelling still pretty red colored and level is to full on stick. Thought about a flush, but look/smell and recent 20k fluid change doesn't seem to justify. At 240k, I'm thinkin' it's time, but looking for solid input on possible external causes. Tested selenoids seemed ok(they clicked anyways and I cleared the screen of metal) . Reseated top gear switch connector, tested circuit continuity(is this a pressure switch or simple position switch?). If this switch fails, will it cause free revving? I don't think so, but not sure...

 

Yikes, two or three in 240,000 miles? I believe the service interval for your car is something like a three-quart drain/refill every 30,000 miles. I'm wondering if the internal filter on your transmission is getting pretty clogged up.

 

I think it's a change every 75k, could be wrong(could be my own made up schedule)...I'm inclined to think the filter might be an issue, yer right on that, along with clutch packs and converter. Not sure how to tell on the converter whether to replace or not??? It doesn't lock up, so I'd prolly replace that as well when it's all apart altho I seem to recall it locking up normally not that long ago...

 

Just a follow up to say that my rebuild was a success(so far, at least...only 25mi. test drive but it worked flawlessly)! All the old solenoids, and switches and sensors were put back in, since the trans had a burned up 1st gear clutch, but otherwise was in pretty good shape internally. Just a std rebuild kit with new clutch plates and torque converter around 400.00 total in parts. Wasn't too bad, just took my time and got a good manual from automanualsource. Put in RedLine D4 synthetic fluid at my son's insistence...

 

Here's the thing about using a non-OEM spec ATF; unless the coefficient of friction (COF) is correct, no matter how superior (or not) the base oil is, you will experience a premature transmission failure. Why? If the COF is too slippery, the clutches will slip excessively when engaging and prematurely fail, if the COF is not slippery enough the clutches will engage too harshly and experience too much shock and prematurely fail (or something else will fail from the shock). Either way, using the incorrect ATF is bad; I would advise you get the Redline out of your transmission ASAP.