97 Accord LX (thats what the VIN indicates) but from reading up, i am not sure it’s all LX, not that it matters.
My son bought this car and at some point, I realized the shape it was in and how unsafe it was and when I got under it, there were bolts missing everywhere where, it leaked brake fluid, had a bad wheel bearing, essentially it was a death trap. Long story short, i started helping my son make repairs and discovered I actually really really love working on this car.
now I have been bitten by the bug and have developed a bit of an obsession. I bought it off of him, ripped out the entire interior, have swapped the front axles out, replaced the brake line, replaced both wheel bearing hub assemblies and updated the ignition system with new ngk itidium plugs, dragonfire wires, a new oem coil and distributor, a stainless 4,2,1 header has been installed. It has a cat back exhaust (unsure of brand), NRG quick release and a racing steering wheel.
I am currently going through the wiring and harnesses, to clean it up. I am eliminating anything and everything I don’t want or need.
The goal is a lightweight, moderately powered street beating daily driver that’s tuned to be a corner killer, not necessarily a straight-line annihilator. That being said, I am going to need a suspension upgrades for sure, which is on the agenda at some point.
I’d like this thing to be clean as a whistle but not aesthetically in the sense of putting door cards or carbon trim pieces. If it can come off, it should come off and stay off. I am a bit of a weight weeny and I can’t stomach adding anything back after I remove it.
it still has power steering, i have dismantled the ducting for the a/c but kept the evaporator and fan as it still works and cools the cab. I live in Florida so AC is great, if it ever stops working, I will just eliminate it at that point. Heater core is gone and looped the block with a hose, for time being.
I am on the fence about removing power steering wheel.
To sum it up, I want a go cart called Honda Accord that smashes corners like kong smashing buildings. All my money is preferred to go to mechanical parts and performance, not luxury or comfort, but with NA reliability in the equation.
It has a stock f22b2 and with 4 speed auto.
eventually I will upgrade with a manual swap, but the auto works well for now. Also considering building the engine out with a H22 Vtech head and upgraded cams. Considering buying junkyard engine parts since I will build it out anyway, but need to continue driving it.
I’d be totally content with 250 horsies but I don’t have a specific target so if it was 220 - 300, all of that is ok.

I am just starting out on this journey, admittedly late to the game (parts can be a mother f***er to source sometimes and seems like options are much fewer).

Just here to announce my build and intentions and fraternize with the likeminded.

Some of my current ongoing issues that i have yet to address:
1. The cluster is erratic and it seems to be related to the harness plugs, wiring or plug jack. I constantly have to mess with it when driving so the tac and temp gauge read correctly, having a difficult time getting the fuel gauge to run accurately and consistently. Something I will pull the sending unit to visually inspect how much fuel I have. Would be fine eliminating the sending unit unit and gauge if theres some way to replace the sending unit housing with a window, so i can just look in and see what it has. Simple is the top priority. The less things that can go wrong, the better. Cluster will be updated with digital screen at some point, so not too worried about a permanent fix.

2. Trans sensors, the transmission control output shaft speed sensor has been acting up, causing some issues with shifting, as occasional hard shifts and or difficulty going into the next gear at the correct rpms. I have a sensor down by the cv axle that the wiring was caught up in the axle somehow and torn out of. It was acting up until i noticed it was completely severed. Probably just needs to be spliced back together which i plan on doing today.

3. The damn heat shields rattle. I temporarily fixed it by stuffing heater hose all over trying shield it from the body, eventually going to remove heat shields and just wrap the exhaust where necessary.

4. Oil leaks. Corner oil pan bolt broke off so pan dumps oil the most while idling, crankshaft seal likely leaking as well. I have a timing cover seal currently but i am not sure if that is the seal i need or if it’s a secondary crankshaft seal of sorts. Presently I just dump oil in her because she’s a thirsty b****. I spend more on oil than gas at the moment keeping it on the road and oil changes occur every couple of days as a result, 😆

Any pointers, tips, advice will be greatly appreciated, I’d like to avoid learning the hard way if possible.

Just an interesting observation i have noticed for any DIYers that like to make things customized for their particular needs relating to heating.
Upon removing the entire dash and heater core, I discovered a lot of engine heat passes through the firewall via this oblong hole, enough so, that it in and of itself acts like a heater. I plan on fabricating a little slider door that i can open and close as much as i want to regulate cab heat in FL winters. Maybe someone else who wants/needs heat for the cab can utilize that in some way.

If you made it this far, thanks for reading this and best wishes and fortune to you. Thanks in advance.
Current interior front

Current rear interior

Current engine bay

Exterior