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Cheap Dynamat alternative / 02 trunk rattle

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  #11  
Old 02-01-2011, 10:49 PM
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As we discussed, 100% coverage with roofing products will reduce noise with twice the weight.
 
  #12  
Old 02-02-2011, 04:29 AM
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make sure you wipe all the surfaces with cat **** or the dynamat will not stick male cat urine works best : )
 
  #13  
Old 02-02-2011, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by keep_hope_alive
As we discussed, 100% coverage with roofing products will reduce noise with twice the weight.
I would like to respectfully point out that we're talking about 40 lbs worth of roofing product here. Saving 1/2 of that (20 lbs) may very well NOT make a big difference to the average person.

I will say that I would hesitate to use this stuff inside the doors. I'm not convinced that it won't trap moisture in the door skins. Second, if it does come loose, I don't want to risk blocking the drain holes.
 
  #14  
Old 02-02-2011, 10:57 PM
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agreed about using it on any vertical surface. it's roofing material, using it for purposes other than designed yields mixed results.

and yes, degreasing all of the metal is necessary for good adhesion of any damping product.

i personally don't care about some extra weight when noise rejection and damping is desired, 40lbs isn't much at all. Raammat BXT II weights 0.52lbs/sq.ft. and is some of the more dense products available. Second Skin Damplifier Pro is even thicker at 0.60lbs/sq.ft. These products are Constrained Layer Damping products designed for automotive use for vibration damping and structural noise damping. They greatly outperform asphalt based products - night and day.

It doesn't matter what you use in your own car, just don't refer to asphalt-based products as "damping" because they do not perform that function.
 

Last edited by keep_hope_alive; 02-02-2011 at 11:06 PM.
  #15  
Old 02-23-2011, 08:07 PM
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Hey all, Been a while since I've been on here... saw the thread had some new life, and decided to look in..


Don't have time to read it all at the moment, but I skimmed it, and I will be back to read it all later..

Just wanted to say that I tried out the expanding foam method that was mentioned (after lots more googling after hearing about it here) everyone seemed to suggest it worked amazingly...

Yes and no. Yes, it made my trunk lid much, much more solid. but at a price. i shot it in between all the air gaps between the stamped U channels on the lower lid half and the upper... and little did anyone say (or i know what would happen) the stuff does NOT obey the laws of physics and expand only into open areas... it pushed up my trunk lid in on all the areas i shot it in.. despite the fact that i left a ton of air gap for it to expand.

Now my Trunk lid although solid(and dense) as it could ever be, is aesthetically ruined. I personally am over it now, and with the factory Accord Spoiler on the car it's not that noticeable unless you look for it. but catch the right angle and you immediately see how JACKED the lid is...


Worst part is, first day, there was no change in the trunk lid.. between 24-48 hours after is where it really started to push up the lid.


I now try to not look at my trunk lid every time I get in and out of the car, and am forever Scarred by the experience.


in short.. leave the expanding foam to sealing up cracks and such on your house.


on the plus side of the entire experience, the trunk Lid is in fact like a brick now. so the expanding foam does work, it just ruins your body panels in the process.


~Moddage
 
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