strut or sway?
no, i think both the v6 and i4 have the same diameter for the sways.
The only reason the stock one looks bigger is because I zoomed in on it, but here's a picture from another person comparing the progress one to our crappy stock one

Also, there are 2 types of setting on the progress sway bar. The first hole where it attaches to the car is for the sofest setting ( I'm on it right on) and the second hole is for the firmer setting. I think I'm going to change it to the firmer setting. But the difference is night and day.
The only reason the stock one looks bigger is because I zoomed in on it, but here's a picture from another person comparing the progress one to our crappy stock one

Also, there are 2 types of setting on the progress sway bar. The first hole where it attaches to the car is for the sofest setting ( I'm on it right on) and the second hole is for the firmer setting. I think I'm going to change it to the firmer setting. But the difference is night and day.
So tl progress is...aftermarket one?
can you use ANY year accord aftermarket sway bar or any tl(stock or aftermarket)sway bar?
I have 04 V6 Sedan, which one should I get?
and are we talking about rear sway bar or front and rear?
how hard is it to install? it's bolt in without any modification, right?
and what does adjustable sway bar link do???
can you use ANY year accord aftermarket sway bar or any tl(stock or aftermarket)sway bar?
I have 04 V6 Sedan, which one should I get?
and are we talking about rear sway bar or front and rear?
how hard is it to install? it's bolt in without any modification, right?
and what does adjustable sway bar link do???
most of the stuff are interchangable with the accord and the TL.
More than likely the Progress like the one I bought would fit the 7th gen accords as well.
The installation isnt difficult, you just have to have the time, which I didnt in this case, and some wd-40 to loosen up the bolts. And no modifications necessary.The one I bought are adjustable meaning I can set it to soft or hard, hard leans more towards less body roll when taking sharp corners unlike the soft setting. I just bought the rear.
More than likely the Progress like the one I bought would fit the 7th gen accords as well.
The installation isnt difficult, you just have to have the time, which I didnt in this case, and some wd-40 to loosen up the bolts. And no modifications necessary.The one I bought are adjustable meaning I can set it to soft or hard, hard leans more towards less body roll when taking sharp corners unlike the soft setting. I just bought the rear.
If you plan to do the rear swaybar defintely have some pb blaster and an extra set of hands. I ended up messing up an end link and had to saw it off....gave me an excuse to buy a reciprocating saw
. But yeah, your car is fairly new so hopefully you won't have as much corrosion as I did. Make sure to use a vice grip to hold the allen wrench still and set it up somewhere on the suspension so it will stay still or use an extra set of hands. I'd say if you don't mess up an end link, should only take about an hour or so. Ratcheting wrenches will come up clutch for this job too. Just got my tl strut bar...plan on putting in tmw woot.
. But yeah, your car is fairly new so hopefully you won't have as much corrosion as I did. Make sure to use a vice grip to hold the allen wrench still and set it up somewhere on the suspension so it will stay still or use an extra set of hands. I'd say if you don't mess up an end link, should only take about an hour or so. Ratcheting wrenches will come up clutch for this job too. Just got my tl strut bar...plan on putting in tmw woot.
I'd recommend getting new swaybar endlinks from Corsportusa.com
They don't cater to our cars, but the end links are universal, also much better than OEM. (This company has the best customer service that I've dealt with on the internet; also they include shipping prices and keep you up to date on the status of your order.) This way you can just cut off the endlinks and not have to worry about the nuts. Also, the OEM nuts are locking and could destroy the endlink threads trying to remove them. It's easiest to just shred them and put new, stronger ones on.
They don't cater to our cars, but the end links are universal, also much better than OEM. (This company has the best customer service that I've dealt with on the internet; also they include shipping prices and keep you up to date on the status of your order.) This way you can just cut off the endlinks and not have to worry about the nuts. Also, the OEM nuts are locking and could destroy the endlink threads trying to remove them. It's easiest to just shred them and put new, stronger ones on.
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