Ok, i'm going to be getting rid of my crappy springs and getting H & R sport springs. I'm getting ingalls camber correctors and the local shop told me to get these kind: http://www.ingallseng.com/parts/35595.htm

Now, Falkore has told me that I want this style instead:
http://www.ingallseng.com/parts/35720.html

The local shop told me go with the first ones because the second ones will push the control arm out too far and I'll get binding, etc. So, what I'm looking to find out is who has which ones and how do they work for you? And also I'm making sure I am listening to Falkore correctly. (I try to be a good student!)

Also, before anyone freaks out on me, I know that depending on where my camber is at, I'll have to get the other model number for different degrees.

 

Absolutly true. Yesterday I completed a three day job of lowering my 92 Accord. I replaced the shocks, springs, every bushing with energy suspension poly bushings, all three tower bars added (megan)and the upper arm pivotcamber on the front. As soon as I set the car down it became painfully obvious what was wrong.

I have been reading up on this for months on end, and not one mention of this before today. When the pivotcamber is adjusted out on my car the ball joint end of the upper arm has about 1/2 inch before it smashes into the outer edge of the strut tower. I wish someone had said something about this before I'd already done this, But like I've said seeing is knowing and now I know why the ball joint method is the way to go. As for me unless someone knows a way to deal with this.. such as cutting the edge off the arm or hammering out the tower where it hits. I'm stuck with a serious issue I can't fix until a few days after my next pay check when I can buy the ball joints.

Hope this helps

 

OK Now I've got even more info. In the case of the pivot type camber kit.. You get the outer edge of the control armhitting the strut tower.

However...

With the ball joint type. The issue tends to be if you lower the car more then about 1"-1.5", then thelarge nut in the top of theball joint (adjuster nut)will hit the top of the strut tower on hard hits (OEM ball joint is flush on top). Many people stillprefer this method. I believe this is because once the ball joint adjuster nut has made a mark on the tower... an easy option would be to use a hole saw to remove that small piece of metal the nut hits. Then simply JB weld a small domed cup into the hole for the nut to travel into.Then coat the area well with some type of wheel well coatingto stop corrosion.

I already have the pivot type, and with the 2" drop my camber is still way in the negative and I still have some clearance issues. Also Due to the ingalls pivot not using a stiff enough bushing you end up with some flex in the upper arm pivot points.

End result and my near future plan: I'm going to reinstall my original pivots with the poly bushings I recived with my bushing kit. Then install the ball joint type camber kit. After an alignment and a few days of driving.. The ball joint nut will make an impression in the strut tower. I will then use a hole saw to remove this metal the nut hits. then I'll JB weld a cup into the hole.

 

Well, when I drop my car on H&R Race next weekend, depending on camber issues, I'm getting the Ingalls Rear Control Arm kit, no adjustable ball joints and no adjustable control arm mounts. As far as I know, you will most likely not need a front camber kit for most springs, I did not with my Eibach Pro-Kit and hopefully will not with the H&R's.

In the end, the only way to tell if you need a camber kit is to drive around for 2 weeks and let the springs settle into place, then get an alignment to see how far off it is. Depending on how bad mine is, I'm gonna run -1* in the rear without camber correction.

Vance, a common thing to do in your situation is to grind off part of the control arm. That is a common problem with the ball joint type kits, the adjuster nut hits the body, thus why we don't recommend it.

 

So what you guys are saying is that both styles pretty much suck. Great. Ok, my question is, does anyone make a pillowball mount for a stock type strut? I know Tein makes one for their coilover kits, but does anyone make one for a stock style strut?

 

Both of the Ingalls ones suck. Check out SPC, they make an adjustable arm for the front, Ingalls doesn't. http://www.spcperformance . com/PROD_DIR/SPCPerf_PROD_SEARCH_DYN.cfm?cmd=Cam&cmd2=67065 &cmd3=

You should be able to use the Tein pillowballs with your struts. You can purchase them separate. Unless you are running some super sick setup, I don't think you need them. Stock mounts will do just fine for a standard drop, that's why they include in the SS coilovers and not with their S-techs.

 

I was only wondering, because it appears that would be the best way to alter alignment without making a problem with clearance anywhere. I've found them for around 140 shipped for the front set. I don't see a adjustable control arm for my year on spc's website though.

 

It's in the link I posted, just remove the spaces around the "." It's front for 90-97 Accords.

 

You mean the 84800 model? The permanent one that offers from -.75 to +.75? That looks unobtrusive at least Ultimately, after I get the new springs on, I'll have to see what my alignment is, and then I can go from there. But thanks for pointing those out!

 

This is what I've recommended for 6th gens. IDK about fittment on other models, but for the 6th gen, the offset ball joints hit and these don't.