i did not know of any 8 ohm subs. how much of an audible difference would the dampening factor between 4 and 8 ohms make. i can tell the difference in 1 and 4 ohms but does the extra impedance allow for that much more of a range? is it worth the extra money it would cost to power something at that high of an impedance?

 

damping factor = control
= how well the amp controls the sub.

at low impedance you get more power compared to the same amp at higher impedances. but a sub given with the same power at 1 ohm as 4 ohm would be just as loud. the main difference is an SQ gain at 4 ohm.

keep in mind that these are nominal impedance, and not actual impedance. actual impedance looks like this:


This is a 4 ohm SVC subwoofer. notice for how long the sub is actually 4 ohms. All subs/speakers look like this. You have a free-air resonance spike at the fs of the driver, then a gradual impedance increase due to the inductance of the voice coil.

 

There are also 6 ohm and 12 ohm SVC subs. The reason is for you to wire three in parallel. Three 6 ohm SVC subs in parallel is 2 ohms. Three 12 ohm SVC subs in parallel is 4 ohms. 8 ohm SVC subs are nice when you want four in parallel for 2 ohm load, or 8 in parallel for a 1 ohm load.

nowadays, we see fewer 8 ohm subwoofers since most amps are capable of lower impedance loads.

 

Do you think buying an amp with remote turn on vs one without will bite me in the long run? I mean I can always just do the pain in the *** thing and pull out radio and find remote wire I will probably have to pull it out if I'm going to hook up loc to front speakers anyway, its probably better to hurry loc inside he dash

 

For me to get a remote turn on I had to solder a wire on the board. Worked great.

 

I don't think o meant to say remote.as.much as auto turn on vs wiring it wih a remote.line from.back of.head unit , BTW thanks.for.all your time and happy Easter

 

remote wire = turn-on wire

in order to get a turn-on from the back of the factory head unit, i had to take the factory head unit apart and find an internal pin that provided the turn-on signal. i soldered a wire to that pin and routed it outside the casing with an inline fuse. there was not a turn-on wire in the factory wire harness.

factory systems that have external factory amplifiers will usually have a turn-on wire that is accessible. not all cars have external amplifiers.

the factory head unit did not have a turn-on wire ready for me to grab.

you can get a LOC with a turn-on wire included, basically it has the auto sensing circuitry built-in. These LOC's are more expensive, so you start approaching the cost of the JL.

 

im still confused, doesn't the loc need a remote wire if so i will have to pull dash apart and might as well get an amp without the remote feature as i will be running a remote wire. maybe this would be easier if i picked the items i was looking at and we can chew over installation plans together

 

The LOC doesn't need a remote wire to function. You don't need a LOC with any amp that has "high level inputs".

In my opinion, the only reason to buy a LOC is to get a remote turn-on signal.

Some people use an ignition wire as a remote turn-on. This means the amp is on whenever the car is on. This is bad because you get noises if the amp is on and the head unit is off. A true remote turn-on provides a 12VDC signal whenever the head unit is on. Provide a 0.5A inline fuse in the remote wire.

Certainly, select equipment and we can review for you.

 

The LOC doesn't need a remote wire to function. You don't need a LOC with any amp that has "high level inputs".

In my opinion, the only reason to buy a LOC is to get a remote turn-on signal.

Some people use an ignition wire as a remote turn-on. This means the amp is on whenever the car is on. This is bad because you get noises if the amp is on and the head unit is off. A true remote turn-on provides a 12VDC signal whenever the head unit is on. Provide a 0.5A inline fuse in the remote wire.

Certainly, select equipment and we can review for you.