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2013 Accord LX Speaker Upgrade

  #1  
Old 03-04-2014, 06:30 PM
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Default 2013 Accord LX Speaker Upgrade

This is my first post, so please be patient with me. I have been driving 6 speaker Toyota Camry's for the past 15 years, and found their sound systems to be adequate.

When I test drove the 2013/4 Accord LX, the audio system sounds poor. I purchased the car anyway, with the anticipation of upgrading the speakers.

I do not wish to spend too much money, nor over accessorize this vehicle that I wish to keep close to stock.

Thus, I believe I wish to simply change the speakers, while maintaining the factory head unit, and prefer not to add an amp.

Based on my research, both on line, and in stores, I am leaning toward lower end sets of Focal speakers (Access or Integration line); components in front, coaxes in the back. I should have them professionally installed; being both a novice and perfectionist, doing it myself would be torture.

I have the 5 questions that I would appreciate feedback on:

1. I get different vastly different opinions on what "fits". Crutchfiled is very conservative, and severely limits my selection. However, most local dealers say they will get any 6.5" set to fit clean, "I promise you".

2. Should I pay the $40 to $60 to use the EX+ tweeter sail panels? My installers give me mixed advice. Plus, I have read that when the EX sail panels are placed on an LX or Sport, the fit is not perfect. The Focal tweeters are pretty bright so I am mostly concerned with esthetics.

3. Some installers say that the best/only way to install the 4 main drivers is to literally cut out the stock speakers, and place the Focals on top of the factory speaker/mount combo. That sounds scary; so what is the deal?

4. Looking for advice on sound deadening for my specific application. What people tell me varies dramatically. Some say it is essential, while others say it is a waste with a stock head unit and my preference to listen to music at moderate levels. Without deadening, I am looking at a $300+ job, so adding about 120 bucks more on deadening is significant. Maybe installing a little right underneath and around the speaker mount, and a layer to dampen the backwave may be sufficient?

5. I hear some concern about speaker replacement and ANC. I wish to maintain the factory ANC benefit. Will that be OK, if just replace the speakers (no amp, subwoofer, etc...)?

I appreciate your insight. Thank you!
 
  #2  
Old 03-04-2014, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by David Medina View Post

I have the 5 questions that I would appreciate feedback on:

1. I get different vastly different opinions on what "fits". Crutchfiled is very conservative, and severely limits my selection. However, most local dealers say they will get any 6.5" set to fit clean, "I promise you".
6.5s will fit all the way around no problem wuth adapter plates.
2. Should I pay the $40 to $60 to use the EX+ tweeter sail panels? My installers give me mixed advice. Plus, I have read that when the EX sail panels are placed on an LX or Sport, the fit is not perfect. The Focal tweeters are pretty bright so I am mostly concerned with esthetics.
staging is a trial and error type thing. the stock location is firing off the glass which makes them more efficient. may make aftermarket ones harsh. I liked my diamonds in the sail pillars.
3. Some installers say that the best/only way to install the 4 main drivers is to literally cut out the stock speakers, and place the Focals on top of the factory speaker/mount combo. That sounds scary; so what is the deal?
sounds dumb. fabricate baffles.

4. Looking for advice on sound deadening for my specific application. What people tell me varies dramatically. Some say it is essential, while others say it is a waste with a stock head unit and my preference to listen to music at moderate levels. Without deadening, I am looking at a $300+ job, so adding about 120 bucks more on deadening is significant. Maybe installing a little right underneath and around the speaker mount, and a layer to dampen the backwave may be sufficient?
if you are just replacing factory speakers on factory amplification seems not all that necessary. the overall gain is gonna be minimal.

5. I hear some concern about speaker replacement and ANC. I wish to maintain the factory ANC benefit. Will that be OK, if just replace the speakers (no amp, subwoofer, etc...)?
probably but only way to know for sure is to put them in and see.

I appreciate your insight. Thank you!
just my opinion.
 
  #3  
Old 03-04-2014, 08:43 PM
berrnard's Avatar
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1. any 6.5" speaker. use adapter plates, unless u want to pay extra for someone to fabricate for you.
2. i did and mine look ballin on my sport. just had to file a tiny bit for my alpine tweets to fit perfectly, looks like it came from the factory that way imo.
3. go to a different shop, they are retards
4. sound deaden at least 25% or not at all. DIY and save some cash, im sure they use dynamat and charge you double.
5. unplug the anc unit. its so easy, well i think its easy. tons of threads

GOOGLE IS YOUR FRIEND
 
  #4  
Old 03-05-2014, 12:28 PM
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Thank you for your comments. Clarification on question #2; My choice is to cut the exiting sail panels and insert the tweeter, or buy the EX panels and use those. Most installers say to just cut the existing sail panels, but I am concerned how that would look since the face of the existing panel is curved. Anybody done that, and how did it turn out?
 
  #5  
Old 03-05-2014, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by David Medina View Post
Thank you for your comments. Clarification on question #2; My choice is to cut the exiting sail panels and insert the tweeter, or buy the EX panels and use those. Most installers say to just cut the existing sail panels, but I am concerned how that would look since the face of the existing panel is curved. Anybody done that, and how did it turn out?
if u want a clean look, buy the ex panels. cutting non tweet panels would look trashy IMO. and the ex panels have a raised portion for the tweets that you wouldnt have with your current panels.
 
  #6  
Old 03-05-2014, 03:14 PM
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I dont think there would be enough room in the sail pannel to cut it and put it in there. I think the tweeter would be too deep.
 
  #7  
Old 03-06-2014, 06:02 PM
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Thank you all for your comments. I think I got it figured out. To recap:

1. With the right adapter and installer, one can install most any 6.5". The Crutchfield criteria is very strict, since it aimed at the DIYer with the provided brackets.

2. Going with the EX tweeter panels, just got them today.

3. Literally cutting our the OEM drivers is a cheap and lazy solution. Use a proper spacer.

4. I will install a moderate amount of deadener on the door since the panels are off. The price each shop charges for this, in addition to the speaker install, varies so looking for the best overall value.

5. Hoping for the best on maintaing the ANC. I wish to preserve it, and most 'speaker only' installs seem not to disrupt it.
 
  #8  
Old 03-06-2014, 07:47 PM
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good responses above. I agree.

cutting out factory speakers is how typical shops deal with modern speaker upgrades because of the time associated with custom baffles, and the angle of some factory mounts are very difficult to recreate. you need to ensure the new speakers are perfectly aimed and sealed to match the factory speakers. an airtight seal is required between the new speakers and the door panel/grill because the door panel is the front of the enclosure (the metal has huge holes in it).

sometimes, cutting speakers out of the factory mounts is a viable option and one that can be just fine. it really depends on the vehicle and the speakers. if the speaker mounts are angled and rigid, it makes sense and i'd prefer that over a flat baffle that leaves detrimental gaps between panel and speaker.

ANC may be just fine as-is, but as it tries to cancel road noise it also destroys sound quality potential.

i think we should come up with a switch at the dash that allows the driver to turn ANC on and off (instead of navigating the head unit menu). note that it is defeatable in the menu but i believe it defaults back to on when the car is restarted.

entry-level Focal is ok. not a bad choice.

your project can be DIY if you have a place to do it, and some basic tools. See this thread for an example of DIY:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...install-58390/
 
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