all speakers stopped working. suggestions?
#21
04-02-2010, 05:33 PM
ok now a new problem I have to tackle! Perfect. So I had the right rear speaker wires connected with just electrical tape, and while I was driving my hu shut of unexpectedly. I looked behind it and the rear right speaker wires had come out of the tape and one side of each + and - was exposed. I'm assuming a short, so I checked all the fuses with a dmm and they're fine. But I measured the power between the yellow and red wires in the harness and I wasn't getting anything....but I know it's getting power because the remote wire still turns on the amp and there's 12v between the yellow and orange wires.
#22
04-02-2010, 10:10 PM
you need to put proper terminations at all of your speakers.
i use .250 female disconnects (or other sizes depending on the speaker). i crimp them to the speaker wires. When inserting the wire, i double it over, then crimp tightly so i cannot pull off the terminal. then i use heat shrink over top of everything. lastly, i use pliers to close the disconnects so they fit tightly on the speaker terminals. Here you can also see the MDF ring i made to mount the driver and the foam between driver and baffle. Like so (from a friends 2008 Scion xB I did):
the other option is to put heat shrink on the speaker wire (loose), then solder the wire to the speaker, then move the heat shrink up and heat it. you also zip tie the wire to the basket to keep it held firm. From Scott Buwalda's 240Z (most bad *** car ever)
until you fix all of your speaker connections, don't power it up. also, i would run new speaker wire - it may be compromised somewhere (at least the right rear may be).
at this point, i also think you should bench test the head unit out of the car. you may have damaged it with the shorting speaker leads - some don't like that. you need to verify that the head unit will work without any speaker connections.
this is one method of securing the head unit wiring - using nylon closed end caps.
and it routed neatly behind the HU to minimize damage (my dad's 1990 Deville has no depth)
amplifier connections (2008 Hyundai Elantra GT i did for a friend)
i use .250 female disconnects (or other sizes depending on the speaker). i crimp them to the speaker wires. When inserting the wire, i double it over, then crimp tightly so i cannot pull off the terminal. then i use heat shrink over top of everything. lastly, i use pliers to close the disconnects so they fit tightly on the speaker terminals. Here you can also see the MDF ring i made to mount the driver and the foam between driver and baffle. Like so (from a friends 2008 Scion xB I did):
the other option is to put heat shrink on the speaker wire (loose), then solder the wire to the speaker, then move the heat shrink up and heat it. you also zip tie the wire to the basket to keep it held firm. From Scott Buwalda's 240Z (most bad *** car ever)
until you fix all of your speaker connections, don't power it up. also, i would run new speaker wire - it may be compromised somewhere (at least the right rear may be).
at this point, i also think you should bench test the head unit out of the car. you may have damaged it with the shorting speaker leads - some don't like that. you need to verify that the head unit will work without any speaker connections.
this is one method of securing the head unit wiring - using nylon closed end caps.
and it routed neatly behind the HU to minimize damage (my dad's 1990 Deville has no depth)
amplifier connections (2008 Hyundai Elantra GT i did for a friend)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
