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Help! Need help with my Amp.

  #11  
Old 06-21-2009, 10:57 AM
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Ok your right, what I said was much more than 1000w, I'm running about 1200w on my stock electrical system. Once you start getting close to 2000w you really should start thinking about it. Also there is a power consumption difference between 2000w between bass and speakers, and just 2000w in bass. Running two or even three giant AGM batteries will let you run longer with car off, with the car running you will need to upgrade your alt to keep them both topped off. Competition guys can get away with the stock alt and a bunch of batteries yes, but if your driving around all day and pushing more than 2000w, and blasting your music that will not end well. If your blasting bass heavy music, your going to be almost drawing their rated power almost constantly. 2000w is about 170amps, a stock alt is about 70 amps. So even not at full tilt, a 2000w amp will be drawing more than your alt can supply. You do that for long enough you will run both, or all three of your batteries dry, that's just simple physics. Since this forum is not about competitions, I can not just recommend throwing more batteries at the problem. If your pulling more energy than your supplying, you will only end up running out of energy. No debate in that.

I do agree with you about caps, with a proper power source and wiring a cap is almost not needed, but there are some instances in where it helps in big systems. In what we run in DD cars, they are pretty much unnecessary.
 
  #12  
Old 06-22-2009, 02:33 AM
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I agree with you that if you are pulling more amps then you are supplying then you will eventually drain the batteries.

But...realistically how long can someone listen to 2000 + watts of bass going full tilt. I am running 2600 watts to my 2 15" solobaric L7s and I can't take full tilt for a whole song. Let alone cruising around all day.

Also, like I said I have 8 amps pushing more than 4500 watts. Using ohm's law I should at full power be pulling somewhere around 375 amps. That being said explain to me how I only have a 250 amp fuse that has never blown in my power wire to my system.

To be honest I have never looked at the schematics of an audio amp. But I think our assumption that it is using only 12 volts could be wrong. Is the 12 volts being stepped up or turned into AC for the amp to produce the "2000" watts. I don't know. If it is then this would explain why simply applying ohm's law does not work.

Is an interesting question though....


P.S. I think your rating of 70 amps is very low for cars in this day and age. My Element has a stock alt somewhere in the 105 amp range. I imagine the accord is in the same neighborhood.

 
  #13  
Old 06-22-2009, 11:36 AM
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Well I guess your right if you are running that much power your not going to be able to do it for too long, for your ears and drivers sake. I could be wrong but I think the amps actually draw a few more watts than they put out, I think this is because there is energy loss when rectifying the DC current to AC then stepping it up, this could be insignificant with digital amps though. But with the bass you play to really make those L7s sing pushes your amps close to their max rating for at least a fraction of a second. When you bought the fuse, on the back of the packaging it tells you how long it takes to blow. I think with most fuses it takes about a full second to blow at it's rated value.

And I'm almost 100% sure the 7th gen accords have a 70 or 80 amp alt. I wouldn't be surprised if the element had the same since it's the same power plant.

Here is my logic though, if you have the money to invest on 3000w of amps, why not spend the $400 on a new alt? Upgrading to H.O alts is not a myth and a lot of guys do it. With a big enough system you still need multiple batteries, but as you add barrties you need more power just to keep them topped off. I mean sure you can get away with two big battries, but they aren't always going to be topped off. Two half dead battiers can supply more amps than one, but won't last much longer.
 
  #14  
Old 06-25-2009, 06:50 PM
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Ok so I guess the w7 is a little out of my range. As was the fi sub. I guess I was day dreaming. What sub and amp combo could I use if I am running 10 gauge power supply. I'd prefer not to have to rewire that. God was it a pain. Anyway.....Any help would be cool. Thanks t00fat. Appreciate it.
 
  #15  
Old 06-25-2009, 08:34 PM
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I wouldn't recommend running any amp on 10wg, no matter how small there is just no need. I didn't even know they sold 10 awg kits. Hell my boat has 10 awg speaker wires, it is 13 foot run and I'm feeding them 100w though.

For a nice sized sub I would go with at the very least 4 awg, but 2 awg is always better and still small enough to manage. I would pull that 10awg and find another use for it, 8awg is really as small as you should go.
 
  #16  
Old 06-26-2009, 06:33 PM
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Ok so I double checked and it's 8 gauge. sorry for all the questions. I just want my subwoofer back working. lol. So any suggestions on an amp and sub?
 
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