eh, i've been too busy to even work on my own car. mine now has 8,300 miles in under 3 months.

i'm getting ready to put an amp in and will then be motivated to test and evaluate the alternator bypass.

 

Can't wait to hear what you find. I went ahead and installed my amps and ran the wire but only hooked up the 100x2 for the front stage. No issues so far from that little one.

 

After many searches, I keep coming back to this thread as being the most beneficial. I am having the same issue on a 1990 Accord EX, however, I have not properly identified the ELD on this car yet. I am 90% sure I have found it, but no dice yet. I have two photos below that I have taken with my cell phone. Sectioned in red on the second is what I "think" is the ELD, there is a small connector with 3 conductions; green/red, black/yellow, black. The colors coordinate with your write up, also, on a cold start I am seeing 14.5V at my rear battery and measuring 14.55v up front at the alternator. The DC voltage between the green/red and black at idle is about 2.49V. These factors lead me to believe that I have found the ELD, yet my OEM honda manual (the real shop manual) does not depict the ELD anywhere, so I am still guessing.

Also, hopefully I will be able to write up a dual alternator installation for this car soon. This is my dedicated SPL car, and we cannot having any voltage drops... I have already had it drop to 12.5v on me many times while playing music at full tilt, which was I was not enthusiastic about, and I hate having to have the a/c blower motor on the low speed in order to draw enough current to have the ELD excite the alternator.

Also, keephopealive, what audio forums are you on? I have seen your user name somewhere, diyaudio, caraudioclassifieds, or another. I cannot remember at this time.

 

That is the ELD.

Terminal no. 1 Blk wire is ground at G251.
Terminal no. 2 Grn/Red wire is load output to ECU.
Terminal no. 3 Blk/Yel wire is ignition power.

 

Exactly what I was hoping to hear, thank you for your swift response!

 

Redbull is right. for your application you can just simulate the voltage drop with a resistor in the end of the connector.

I am on 6 other forums that i am active on and registered for probably a dozen more. I am the only one using "keep_hope_alive" all are audio or car audio based. mobileaudioforum, caraudio, driveaccord, caraudiojunkies, diyma, sounddomain, phoenixphorums, diyaudio, mobilesoundscienceforum, clubsciontc, smd, and others i don't have shortcuts for.

 

Did you get your amp installed?

 

Who is this directed toward?

I got mine in.

 

To you, yes. You said you would look at a bypass once you got your amp in, did you find out anything?

 

I'd love to have this little black box, but until there is enough demand and the car is older, I don't see it happening. It's $$$$ and time in R&D to figure out how to get a beefier alt to run on the newer accords without any issues with the ECU. Does anyone know what all companies in addition to Rush are working on it?