Honda Electrical Load Detection (ELD) Bypass
#34
03-17-2012, 05:16 PM
No and a higher charging voltage would not be good for the electronics in the car anyway.
#35
03-17-2012, 07:45 PM
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if you want a higher voltage you would need a high output alternator with an external voltage regulator. then you can set your voltage as you want it.
you would also need a step down module cause as crispin said a higher voltage would not be good for anything except the amplifiers (and then only if they were made to handle a higher voltage)
you would also need a step down module cause as crispin said a higher voltage would not be good for anything except the amplifiers (and then only if they were made to handle a higher voltage)
#36
03-18-2012, 08:09 AM
if you want a higher voltage you would need a high output alternator with an external voltage regulator. then you can set your voltage as you want it.
you would also need a step down module cause as crispin said a higher voltage would not be good for anything except the amplifiers (and then only if they were made to handle a higher voltage)
you would also need a step down module cause as crispin said a higher voltage would not be good for anything except the amplifiers (and then only if they were made to handle a higher voltage)
Ive already got a 270 amp alt on it, hopefully just using the resistor trick will keep my voltage more steady. It sucks having a 5kw+ stereo and only charging at 13.8. A step down module wouldnt be needed for the car unless it was 15+ volts though.
#37
03-18-2012, 09:38 AM
Senior Member Stereo Guru..Almost A Mod :)
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I figured you meant you wanted to raise it beyond that. this eld bypass will get you sitting at 14.4 or at least it should. you can also do a big three upgrade. I pulled my HO alt to send it back to get some work done on it and even with the stock alt I get 14.6 when I start the car and on the interstate. it doesnt kick down unless I am in town.
#38
03-18-2012, 11:57 PM
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Quad Cities, IL
Posts: 3,279
The bypass simply tells the engine to provide field current to keep the alternator on. It has nothing to do with the final voltage achieved.
The alt wants to provide 14.4V but there earl other factors that reduce that. Engine rpm, wIre resistance, load, etc. all play a role.
A separate 16V system is an expensive and complemented option for SPL competition systems.
The alt wants to provide 14.4V but there earl other factors that reduce that. Engine rpm, wIre resistance, load, etc. all play a role.
A separate 16V system is an expensive and complemented option for SPL competition systems.
#39
03-20-2012, 06:57 PM
Now if you just do the single resistor in the red/green and the black wire, do you still plug the connector back in? I did it without plugging it in like said in and earlier post and it didnt change anything.
#40
03-20-2012, 08:03 PM
If you have all class D amps which run around 80% efficiency
5000 watts / 14 volts / 80% = 446 amps plus the car needs around 40 amps
You need around a 500 Amp alternator to run a 5K system.
Even though it is slightly off topic what equipment are you running that draws 5,000?
Also most if not all high output alts made by the big guys like Mechaman or DC Power have the ELD bypassed already.
What alt are you running and what subs do you have that handle 5,000 watts?