Hi! please attach the photo of my fuse box, is this the same case for me? Thank you in advance @keep_hope_alive !

 

If anyone on here is looking for alternators contact jon patrick at custom electric service inc in ohio and tell him Ariel sent you.They are building my 320a for 395 for my 99 accord. I did an Eld bypass relay with dpst switch to relay and indicator light using 820ohm resistor. I used Bypass wiring below.

 

Put together a slamming system for less 30.oo in high grade wires n fuses ok I have used some of ur knowledge and would like to say thx u and here is a little knowledge back just a little f.y.i. in junkyard u can find fuse boxes for pennies on the dollar in the back of Mercedes Benz ,BMW, etc...any high class car will have them to run multiple amps and they come with 1/0 pure oxygen free 99.8% wire with a battery terminal from front to to the truck....find alarms and reinstall them in ur car...and if ur knowledge is up to par push start systems for 10.oo prices vary oh and for sound deading I use in all my cars I install systems lowes has duct insulation by frost king for 18.oo that does the trick as expensive ones.....save ur money I know I do cuz in arizona and child support diy guy over thxs all of u ! Rca speaker wire fuses etc.....21.oo total

 

It's been a while, and I wanted to return to this subject. I would like to be able to drive in the daytime without having to turn my headlights on, but my understanding is that the ELD bypass doesn't work for 9th gen cars like my 2012 Civic LX, and later models. They have an ELD, but apparently other inputs to the computer also affect the alternator voltage, so the 820-ohm resistor doesn't work. At least I haven't found any report that anyone was able to make it work. I haven't tried it on my car because getting access to the bottom of the fuse box appears to be a major undertaking which I would rather not undertake unless I can be pretty sure the mod will work. If I'm wrong about the bypass not working for later models, I hope someone will correct me, and direct me to a link.

There are two mysterous sensors on the negative battery terminal. I think one senses current into and out of the battery. I don't know what the other does. Is it possible that either or both of these sensors affect the alternator voltage?

Then there is the alternator. I was hoping for a three-wire ot four-wire connection, but instead I see a single control line, which I assume means it's CanBus. So I was thinking perhaps it would be possible to perform a man-in-the-middle attack on the alternator, inserting an Arduino-based controller into the CanBus line. It would receive the control messages from the computer, and pass those along to the alternator, but never pass on instructions to go into low-voltage mode.

Actually, I also wondered whether there might be a way to just change the voltage level of low voltage mode - so it would be, say, 13.2V instead of 12.4V as mine is. Then I think the battery would stay charged and not die quickly as it does under the Honda dual mode system - unless you keep the headlights on.

Well, I just wondered if I had missed the solution to this problem. I also wondered if this problem persists with the new Hondas. If so, I might need to see if Toyota or Hyundai models are free from it. Shame on Honda for getting their MPG ratings at the cost of frequent battery replacement. I guess the economics work for Honda, but they certainly don't for the customer.

 

Did you try this hack after? If so what wires were you presented with for your ELD? Did you run the hack permanently.. no issues?

 

I still haven't bothered to dig further into the 9th gen ELD bypass, but i'm starting to get annoyed at the low output voltage and may be enticed into developing the bypass this winter (at 195k mi.).

 

Roger.. thanks for all the effort!

 

Hey there KHA,

I’ve been reading up on this forum and Im about to upgrade my brothers audio system for a 2014 Accord Ex-l. I understand you’re probably busy with other projects. I was wondering if there has been any updates to the ELD Bypass?

 

I'm at 206k mi and the stock alt paired with a 500F ultracapactor bank has kept up with the systems i've ran (and they weren't small). And the alt will regulate to 12.5V so that saves the battery compared to the old ELD. Granted, we all prefer 14.4V out of the alt, and the battery does as well when running a system full tilt while the engine is at idle. I have the schematics and documents, but not the time or desire. I'm gifting my car to my daughter this fall and buying something new. Unlikely that i'll make the change, but who knows.

What's more likely is that someone can just ask for my info and call me and I can explain the process.

 

Do I have to add an 820 ohm resistor to the ground? I did everything expect that and it’s still bouncing around