I have an ultra cap bank good for 500F at 16V. It's six BCAP3000 wired in series (3,000F each at 2.7V). the ultracap bank does certainly help with regulation.

i tie the cap bank into a fused distro block. the fuse is important because you need to disconnect the cap bank BEFORE disconnecting the battery and reconnect AFTER reconnecting the battery. the caps alone can allow you to start the car. they need to be charged slowly, so the fuse can be replaced with a resistor bank (i use a pair of 15ohm 25W in parallel) for slow charging.

 

So would the kit redpoint linked to be the one for me or should I go for something more like yours for my application?

 

hi there, just wondering where you went to get your alternator. was it super expensive? the ones in seeing at singer etc etc are a: a bit on the overkill side b: UNGODLY EXPENSIVE!!!! I have an '02 V6 accord btw lol

also, did you get simply abysmal gas mileage in your 01 V6 accord? I got this after a mishap with my 03 Maxima and i get about 23 mpg in town with that, the accord gets me about 18

 

town driving isn't great for the V6 fuel mileage but i kept it above 21. i got 25-27 on the highway. i put in Mobil 1 synthetic oil which gained me a few mpg.

the alternator i got was from a seller on eBay and it lasted for a few years but started making noise then went out - the original one is back in. it was under $200. you can get yours rewound for around $100 (or buy a stock alt and have it rewound).

 

Could you point me to a parts list for building the bank you did, Hope? And, would it be beneficial to also replace the stock battery with an AGM?

 

PM sent.

 

I'm trying to do this on my 2005 v6 6mt. All of the color wires that are listed. I don't have.... Pink and black. Blue and black and black.... Any insight on this?

 

where are you looking? at the ELD harness? pic?

 

I want to see if this bypass could have caused or somehow contributed to my overcharging situation. I do not believe so, but I feel I must rule out even the slightest possibility.


I have a 2005 Civic w/ 2 redtop Optima and an aftermarket 180 amp alternator. I completed the bypass modification many months ago and have had no issue - until a couple weeks ago.


In the morning it overcharges (~19v) for a minute or two, cycling up and down from ~14.1 to ~19v, then acts just fine for the rest of the day. Stopping and restarting the engine, increasing rpm, turning on/off lights/stereo does not affect the condition. The bypass works as intended after the initial overcharging issue. I had the batteries tested individually at a shop and they tested good.


I am thinking in the direction of the alternator but since it only does it (very repeatable and consistently) in the mornings, and never when I am driving or letting it sit during work.


Could the ECU or other components cause this condition? I feel confident this ELD bypass could not cause this condition but I wanted to ask in case I am misunderstanding some part.


I find it funny (if not very misleading) that the battery shop blames the hi amp alternator, the alternator shop blames the batteries and both battery shop and alternator guy lost their mind after I talked about bypassing the ELD, which they know nothing about.


Any suggestions or comments would be greatly appreciated.


I am going to look closer to the communication between the alternator and ECU, possibly installing a relay to disable the alternator during startup on the ignition wire, or the control wire. I know this would be a work around. I have attached the PDF for reference that I am looking at.


-Jon

 

The alternator is overcharging if the readings are ~ 19 volts.

The ELD unit or the ELD bypass would not cause the alternator to overcharge. The ELD unit, together with the ECM/PCM can control the alternator's charge mode (high (~14 - 15V) or low output (~12 - 13V)); however, the alternator's internal voltage regulator suppose to control the alternator's maximum voltage output.